element of the mores defining women's participation 

 in society. Thus as more liberal attitudes gained 

 acceptance and modified the original concept of 

 the '"weaker sex," women gradually achieved social 

 acceptance of their full participation in aquatic 

 activities. 



Bathing Costume 



Bathing became popular as a medicinal treatment 

 for both men and women of the new world in the last 

 half of the 18th century. It was the only aquatic 

 activity, however, that was considered proper for 

 women until over a hundred years later. 



Like so many other customs, changes in bathing 

 costume styles were initially introduced by way of 

 England. They were adapted or rejected according 

 to the special conditions of this continent. To give a 

 clearer picture of the costume worn in the colonies 

 and in the United States, descriptions of the English 

 dress will be included where pertinent. I ha\e not, 

 however, found any evidence showing that bathing 

 nude was a practice for women in this country. 



THE EARLY BATHING GOWN 



It is disappointing but not surprising to discover 

 the lack of descriptions pertaining to early bathing 

 costume. This simple gown was utilitarian, not 

 decorative. Thus it deserved little attention in the 

 eyes of the contemporary bather. 



No doubt it is due to the importance of the original 

 owner that the following example has sur\'ived. In 

 the collection of family memorabilia at Momit 

 Vernon, there is a chemise-type bathing gown that 

 is said to have been worn by Martha Washington 

 (fig. 6). According to a note attached to the gown 

 signed by Eliza Parke Custis, and addressed to 

 "Rosebud," a pet name for her daughter, Martha 

 Washington probably wore this bathing gown at 

 Berkeley Springs as she accompanied her daughter. 

 Patsy, in her bath. 



This blue and white checked linen gown has 

 several construction details similar to the chemise, a 

 woman's undergarment, of the period. The sleeves 

 were gathered near the shoulder and were set in 

 with a gusset at the armpit. The skirt of the gown was 

 made wider at the bottom by the usual method of 

 adding four long triangular pieces — one to each side 

 of both the front and back. The sleeves, however, are 

 not as full as those one would expect to find on a 

 chemise of the period. Also a chemise would probablv 



have had a much wider neckline gathered by a 

 draw-string threaded through a band at the neck 

 edge. Instead, this bathing gown has a moderately 

 low neckline made wider by a slit down the front 

 which is closed by two linen tapes sewn to either 

 edge of the front. Although less fabric was used for 

 the bathing gown than was normally required to 

 make a chemise, it was probably not because of 

 functional considerations as one might like to think, 

 but because of the scarcitv of fabric. Close examina- 



^ 



V^ 



Figure 6. — Linen b.^thing gow.n said to have been 

 worn by Martha Washington. (Courtesy of The 

 Mount Vernon Ladies' Association.) 



tion re\eals that the triangular sections of fabric 

 used to add fullness to the skirt consist of several 

 pieces. In fact the two sections used in the back are 

 made from a different fabric, although it is still a 

 blue and white checked linen. Frugal use of scraps in 

 linings and hidden sections of decorative costume was 

 common practice in the 18th century. The piecing 

 of the bathing gown is further evidence of the fact 

 that it was a garment that had no ornamental purpose. 



Of particular interest are the lead disks which are 

 wrapped in linen and attached near the hem ne.xt 

 to the side seams by means of patches. No doubt 

 these weights were used to keep the gown in place 

 when the bather entered the water. 



The following account of bathing in Dover, England, 

 in 1782 suggests how the bathing gown might ha\e 

 been used at Berkeley Springs; 



14 



BULLETIN 2,'')0: CONTRIBUTIONS FROM THE MUSEUM OF HISTORY .-^ND TECHNOLOGY 



