this theory in the following stanza of a poem that 

 appeared in 1845: 



But go to the beach ere the mornina; be ended 

 And look at the bathers — oh what an array] 

 The ladies in trowsers, the gemmen in blouses 

 E'en red flannel shirts are the "go" at Cape May.''' 



The rather crude but delightful sketch of sea- 

 bathing at Coney Island in 1856 (fig. 7) shows the 

 ladies wearing \-ery full, ankle-length, trousers with 

 a sack top extending loosely only a few inches below 

 the waist. This type of bathing costume, which was 

 primarily a bifurcated garment instead of a skirted 

 one, became the prevailing fashion as reported in 

 English women's magazines of the 1860s. 



In contrast to the originally European skirtless 

 costume, the Philadelphia publication, Peterson's 

 Magazine, stated that bathing dress should consist 

 of a pair of drawers and a long-skirted dress. The 

 recommended drawers were full and confined at 

 the ankle by a band that was finished with a ruffle. 

 These drawers were attached to a "body" and 

 fastened so that, even if the skirt washed up, the 

 indixidual could not po.ssibly be exposed. The dress 

 was made by pleating or gathering the desired 

 length of material onto a deep yoke with a separate 

 belt securing the fullness at the waist. The bottom 

 of the hem was about three inches above the ankle 

 and was considered rather short. Loose shirt sleeves 

 were drawn around the wrist by a band which was 

 finished with a deep ruffle as a protection against 

 the sun. According to this article many women wore 

 a small talma or cape which hid the figure to some 

 extent. It was recommended that the drawers, dress, 

 and talma be made of the same woolen material. 



Bathing-dresses, although generally very unbecoming can 

 be made to look very prettily with a little taste. If the 

 dress is of a plain color, such as grey, blue or brown, a 

 trimming around the talma, collar, yoke, ruffles etc. . . ., 

 of crimson, green or scarlet, is a great addition.^' 



To complete a bathing toilette the following items 

 were considered necessary: a pair of large lisle thread 

 gloves, an oil cap to protect the hair from the water, 

 a straw hat to shield the face from the sun, and gum 

 overshoes for tender feet. 



3< -'Cape May," Godn's Lady's Book (Dccembpr 1845). vol. 

 31, p. 268. 



35 "Fashions for .August, Bathing Dresses," Pelason's Magavw 

 (.August 18.")6), vol. 30, p. 14.5. 



The red, tan, and blue-green cliccked bathing dress 

 .shown in figure 8 is jauntily trimmed with crimson 

 braid edging the collar, belt, and wrist and ankle 

 bands. This costume is a variation of the style de- 

 scribed previously. The drawers, unlike those de- 



Figure 8.— B..\THiNG DRESS, c. 1835. (Courtisy of Phila- 

 delphia .\fuseum of Art. Photograph by .\. j \\'^ •" 

 stafl" photographer.) 



PAPER (,4: women's B.ATHING AND SWI.MMING COSTUME IN THE UNITED ST.ATES 



17 



