illustrations. Xo drawings, however, were published 

 to show the knitted jersey suit that was described as 

 ". . . usually sleeveless, quite short and fairly 



straight . . ." and ". . . intended for the woman 

 who swims expertly." ^' 



As late as the early 1920s, the fashion pages of 

 Harper's Bazar and Vogue were concentrated on the 

 bathing suits, aiming at readers in\olved in the 

 social life of the seaside resorts lounging about the 

 beach with occasional splashing in the water. The 

 growing numbers of women who wanted swimming 

 suits, however, had only to turn to the advertising 

 sections of these same magazines to find that even in 

 1915 such shops as Bonwit Teller & Co. and 

 B. AltiTian & Co. were advertising knitted swimming 

 suits. 



In June 1916, Delineator solved the dilemma of 

 bathing versus swimming costume in an intriguing 

 article written to sell a pattern for a bathing costume. 

 In description and presentation of illustrations, the 

 article emphasized a costume with "all the features 

 essential to a practical swimming-suit." ^" The blouse 

 and bloomers were attached at the waist in this 

 garment which had a square neckline and no skirt 

 or sleeves. Made up in wool jersey, this would have 

 been a practical swimming costume for the period. 

 But this was not the only style available from this 

 one pattern. The following variations were included: 

 a sailor collar on a "V" neckline; a high-standing 

 collar, long sleeves; and a detachable skirt with the 

 fullness either pleated or gathered into a waistband, 

 to be worn long to the knees or just short enough to 

 show several inches of the bloomer. In this way 

 Delineator succeeded in satisfying nearly every degree 

 of conservatism — an amazing accomplishment. 



The spring edition of Sears, Roebuck and Co. Catalog 

 for 1916 offered a one-piece, or "California-style," 

 knitted worsted bathing suit with the underpiece 

 sewn to a skirt. This costume was less elaborate than 

 the other dresses shown, although it was still knee 

 length. The 1918 spring catalog showed two one- 

 piece knitted outfits suitable for swimming in striking 

 contrast to the surplice bathing dresses that were 

 also offered. By 1920 all of the bathing costumes 

 illustrated in the Sears, Roebuck and Co. Catalog were 

 of the more abbreviated and functional type. 



In 1918 Annette Kellenuan recommended that 

 serious swimmers wear close-fitting swimming tights 

 or the two-piece suits commonly worn by men. Being 



Figure 15. — Black su.k bathi.ng dress. 1923. 

 (Smithsonian photo P-65412.) 



50 Ibid. (June 15, 1917), vol. 49, no. 12, p. ti7. 

 '""For the Modern Mermaid," Delineator i June I'Ui. i, 

 vol. 38, no. 6, p. 52. 



PAPER 64: women's BATHING AND SWIMMING COSTITME IN THE UNITED STATES 



27 



