Appendix I 

 Materials Listed in Accounts with Hunter and Dick, Frederickshursj 



Alphabetical Smiuuary of Materials listed iu 

 Ledger G in Mercer's accounts with William Hunter 

 and Charles Dick, merchants of Fredericksburg. 

 Definitions are based on information in .1 .New 

 Oxford Dictionary, Webster's New International Dic- 

 tionary (second edition, unabridged), Every Day Life 

 in the Massachusetts Bay Colony, by George F. Dow 

 (Boston, 1935), and a series of articles by Hazel E. 

 Cummin in Antiques: vol. 38, pp. 23-25, 111-112; 

 vol. 39, pp. 182-184; vol. 40, pp. 153-154, 309-312. 



Allapine: .\ mixed stutT of wool and silk, or mohair and 



cotton. 

 BoMBAYs: Raw cotiou. 

 Bombazine: A twilled or corded dress material of silk and 



worsted, somelimes also of cotton and worsted, or of 



worsted alone. In black, used for mourning. 

 Broadcloth: A fine, smooth woolen cloth of double 



width. 

 Buckram: A kind of coarse linen or cotton fabric, stiffened 



with gum or paste. Murray quotes Berkeley, Atitphr . . . 



(1832), "One of our ladies . . . stiffened with hoops and 



whalebone and buckram."' 

 Calamanco: A light-weight material of wool or mohair 



and wool, sometimes figured or striped, sometimes 



dyed in clear, bright colors, and calendered to a silky 



gloss to resemble satin. 

 Calico: Murray defers to Chambers" Cydu(>aedui definition 



(1753): ".An Indian stuff made of cotton, sometimes 



stained with gay and beautiful colours . , . . Calicoes are 



of divers kinds, plain, printed, painted, stain'd, dyed, 



ehints, muslins, and the like." It is not to be conhised 



with the modern material of the same name. 

 Cambric: A fine white linen or cotton labric, much used 



for handkerchiefs and shirts, originally made at C:aml)ra\- 



in Flanders. 

 Camlet: A class of fine-grained material of worsted or 



mohair and silk, sometimes figured, sometimes "watered."" 



Moreen is one of its subtypes. 

 Check: .Any checked, woven or printed, material. 

 Di-ffel: a woven cloth with a thick nap, synonymous 



with \/ii^. Made originally at Dufi'el, near .Antwerp. 



In a passage quoted by Murray, Defoe (.1 Tour af Grral 



Briliiiii) mentions its maiuiracture at Witney, '"a Yard 

 and three quarters wide, which are carried to .\ew 

 England and Virginia."" 



Frieze: A coarse woolen cloth with a nap on one side. 



(tARH.x: Linen made in (Jorlitz, .Silesia, in several shades of 

 blue-white and brown. 



Holland: A linen material, somelimes glazed, first made 

 in Holland. 



Kersey (often spelled "Cresoy"' by Mercer): A coarse, 

 long-fiber woolen cloth, usually ribbed, used for stockings, 

 caps, etc. 



Shalloon: .\ closely woven woolen material used for 

 linings. 



Prunella: .A stout, smooth material, used for clergymen's 

 gowns, and later for the uppers of women"s shoes. 



T.^MMv: .A plain-woven worsted material, with open 

 weave. Used plain, it served for Hour bolts, sou]) and 

 milk strainers, and sieves. Dyed and glazed, and some- 

 times quilted, it was used for curtains, petticoat linings, 

 and coverlets. 



Tartan: Woolen cloth woven in Scotch plaids. 



In addition to these fabrics, there are listed "China 

 TafTety," "Silv"' Vellum," ''worsted," "Ponierania 

 Liniien," "Russia Bedtick," "Irish linnen,"' '"1 yd. 

 India Persian," "worsted Damask," "Mechlin lace" 

 (a costly Belgian pillow lace, of which Mercer pur- 

 chased nine yards of "No. 3" at five shillings, and 

 eight yards of "X" 4" at six shillings), "sprig Linnen," 

 and "G silk laces at iji" 



For trimming and finishing, one finds white thread, 

 black thread, nun's thread, brown thread, blue 

 thread, red thread, colored thread (all bought In the 

 pound), gingham and hair buttons, "gold gimp 

 ribband," "pair Womens buckles," i'ringe, coat 

 buttons, \est buttons, scarlet buttons, siher coat 

 buttons, shirt buttons, '"mettle" vest buttons, "fine"' 

 shirt buttons, "course" shirt buttons, "Card sleeve 

 bullous,"' siKer sleeve buttons, and cording. Tiiere 

 were .sexeral purchases of haircloth, used principally 

 in stifTening lapels and other parts of men's clothing, 

 but used also for towels, tents, and for (li\ing m;ilt 

 and hops. 



