INDIAN COSTUMES — KRIEGER 627 



walrus ivory. Although tailoring was highly developed as an art 

 it does not follow that certain individuals were specially adept in 

 the cutting, fitting, and sewing of skin garments; on the contrary, 

 among the Indians, each individual shaped his or her own garment 

 and sewed it together. The preparation of the skins was considered 

 the work of women. Among the Pueblo Tribes of the Southwest, 

 each individual wove the cloth he or she wished to use as an article 

 of dress. Among the Hopi the bride's trousseau was woven by her 

 prospective husband. 



Articles of Indian dress. — For purposes of this article, a de- 

 tailed description of the clothing of the Eskimo will not be under- 

 taken; attention will be directed to the dress of Indians from the 

 several culture areas of North America. The popular conception 

 of native American dress is that of the Indian of the Plains. The 

 typical costume of tanned buckskin, consisting of a shirt, leggings, 

 belt, breechcloth. and of beaded or quilled moccasins as worn by the 

 Plains tribes has come to be considered typical of all other tribes 

 and culture areas of America in rather much the same manner that 

 the physical features of the Plains Indian erroneously have come to 

 be considered typical of all the Indian tribes of America. Although 

 typical of a large area, including most of the region west of the 

 Mississippi Kiver and east of the Cascades, the Plains type of dress 

 is but one of several of the typical Indian costumes of America. 



The dress of the Pueblo Indians of the southwest United States 

 is generally .patterned after that of the Plains tribes, but is made of 

 woven fabrics instead of skins, although there are in the National 

 Museum buckskin shirts collected by James Mooney from the Hopi 

 Indians of Arizona, and painted buckskin war shirts collected by 

 J. Walter Fewkes from the pueblo of San Domingo on the Rio 

 Grande in New Mexico. (Cat. No. 175789, U. S. N. M.) By way 

 of contrast, a Hopi shirt, modeled after the pattern of the Mexican 

 poncho, is woven like a blanket but with the addition of a central 

 opening through which the head is thrust. The shirt has rudi- 

 mentary, loose-fitting sleeves but is otherwise open at the sides. (Cat. 

 No. 23050, U. S. N. M.) Several blanket shirts collected by C. H. 

 Shaw from the Zuili pueblos of New Mexico also are adaptations 

 of the woven blanket. (Cat. No. 215549, U. S. N. M.) 



Woven garments are never cut and fitted as are the skin shirts 

 and other objects of dress of the Eskimo and northern Indian tribes. 

 In the case of the Zuiii and Hopi shirts mentioned above the opening 

 for the neck is a part of the regular weave and the short sleeves are 

 formed by sewing on rectangular woven pieces of cloth. Ordinarily 

 each, garment is worn as it comes from the loom, namely, a rectangu- 

 lar, square, or oblong woven fabric. 



