638 ANNUAL REPORT SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, 192 8 



The exhibit of Tlingit and Haida costumes in the National Mu- 

 seum consists of large ceremonial blankets of goat's wool, robes of 

 tanned deerskin bordered with quilled fringe and superb decoration 

 in color, splendidly painted ; dance aprons trimmed with fur and 

 fringed with deer-hoof tinklers; and woven dance apron and capes 

 trimmed with pufiin beaks. (PI. 7.) 



For ceremonial occasions and to protect the body against the cold 

 of winter the Northwest coast tribes wore a robe of skins or of woven 

 fiber. This robe was rectangular and was wrapped about the body 

 under the left arm and over the right shoulder. The legs from the 

 knees down remained uncovered. 



The women tied aprons of shredded bark around the waist and a 

 cape of woven cedar bark covered them from neck to knees. 



The weaving of the Chilkat, the most northerly of the Tlingit 

 tribes, attracts attention because of the materials used and the oddity 

 of decorative design. Wool of the Rocky Mountain goat, either in 

 natural color, or dyed black, yellow, or green was used combined 

 with threads of the inner bark of the cedar. The native loom 

 consists of a single bar supported on two forked stakes. No ma- 

 chinery is needed for shifting the warp or driving the weft, the 

 woman's fingers taking the place of these. Indeed, it is simply a 

 method of twined basketry in soft material, producing figures as in 

 Gobelin tapestries. The Chilkat type of weaving is shown here by 

 a blanket, a coat, and a ceremonial apron, into which are woven with 

 excellent effect figures of symbolic animals. (PI. 8.) The light- 

 green color was produced by permitting copper to corrode in urine, 

 while the yellow came from a variety of tree moss; black dye was 

 produced by boiling the bark of the hemlock. 



Women as well as men had their bodies tattooed by introducing 

 soot under the skin. Tattooing marks were applied principally to 

 the arms and legs. Women carried labrets, or wooden disks, at the 

 center of their lower lips. As was the practice among most Indian 

 tribes of North America the men's haii" was worn long and the beard 

 was eradicated. Among them as with most tribes among wliom there 

 existed a strong social organization a remarkable development of 

 ceremonial life is noticed. On ceremonial occasions they covered 

 their bodies with oil over which was daubed a mixture of sparkling 

 sand, paint, and mica. White down was also employed to enhance 

 personal beauty on religious occasions. 



Dress of the tribes of the Yi ashington-0 reg on coast. — Among the 

 tribes of this area, men wore a robe, a headband, and more rarely a 

 shirt, coat, leggings, moccasins, and a breeclicloth. Women also 

 wore a long shirt, dress, apron, and rarely leggings, breeclicloth, and 

 moccasins. 



