646 ANNUAL, REPORT SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, 19 2 8 



The Hopi of Arizona occupy eight pueblos in northeastern Arizona. 

 They are among the most northerly of the Indian tribes employing 

 the loom, which found its greatest use in ancient Peru. Among the 

 Hopi men wear an apron or breechcloth, over which formerly was 

 worn at times a robe of woven woolen cloth, or of woven rabbit skin, 

 or turkey feathers. Women wore a dress blanket reaching to the 

 knees and fastened over the right shoulder. Moccasins of hides and 

 buckskin are worn, to which are often added leggings of buckskin or 

 sheepskin by the women. The use of a calico shirt and short trousers 

 has taken the place of the ancient costume among the men, while the 

 women continue to wear a dark-blue woolen blanket woven on native 

 looms and fastened with an embroidered belt. 



There are exhibited looms for weaving blankets, belts, and sashes, 

 and examples of the work in cotton and wool. Woven and em- 

 broidered wedding blankets, sashes, and kilts used in ceremony, and 

 braided sacred sashes are shown. Shoulder blankets, breechcloths, 

 weaving sticks, and plain and figured belts are typical articles illus- 

 trating the loom work of the Hopi. 



In the weaving of their belts the Zuili employ a w^eaving heald 

 made of numerous short sticks placed side by side in a perpendicular 

 position and their ends lashed with buckskin cord to sticks running 

 horizontall}^ Small holes are burnt midway of the upright sticks 

 to hold the warp threads. In the belt weavers' outfit of the south- 

 western United States the warp is shifted by a wooden harness and 

 the weft is beaten home by a wooden sword. While engaged in 

 weaving, women sit on the ground, and the loom is shifted instead 

 of altering the position of the body on the ground after the weav- 

 ing has progressed to a certain stage. 



At Zufii the fiber of the yucca plant was woven into the single 

 garment worn by women at the beginning of the historical period. 

 This garment, reaching from the shoulders to the knees, was fastened 

 over the right shoulder and by a belt worn at the waist. A similar 

 garment of woven cotton cloth was worn by the women of other 

 pueblos. Under the influence of the Spaniards, after the introduc- 

 tion of sheep, this garment was fashioned of woolen yarns and dyed 

 black or blue, but remained otherwise practically unchanged. At the 

 outset of the historical period the cotton used in spinning 3arns 

 was grown at Hopi and on the Kio Grande, especially at Cochiti. 



Moccasins were originally worn by Zuiii men and women. These 

 had rawhide soles and were fashioned to reach to the knees for winter 

 wear. Women's moccasins at present are equipped with a long 

 legging wrapping of buckskin. A woolen cloth or footless sock is 

 worn underneath the wrapped legging. 



Formerly, the hairdress of Pueblo women was elaborate. The 

 hair was done up above the ears in large whorls over a frame of corn- 



