INDIAN COSTUMES KRIEGER 647 



husks, and iinmaiTied (2:irls among the Hopi continued this practice 

 until recently. Married women wear the hair plaited in two braids. 

 Banged forelocks are general among the several pueblos for both 

 men and women, and men tie their hair in braids with intertwining 

 of fur, yarn, or flannel as among the Plains tribes. 



The various pueblos of the Hopi Indians are situated in the semi- 

 arid region of northern Arizona. They mark the most northerly 

 and westerly of the tribes occupying the loom area. The isolated 

 habitat of the Hopi made possible the preservation of the ancient 

 pueblo costumes, as well as customs and traditions, long after the 

 culture of more favorably situated tribes had succumbed to the in- 

 fluence of civilization. In recent times, however, the Hopi have 

 discarded most of their traditional costumes in figured and em- 

 broidered wool blankets and robes, and have adopted the cotton cloth 

 and modern costume of the white man. 



There are exhibited early examples of embroidery in colored yarns 

 on wool and native cotton fabrics woven with simple hand looms; 

 also plainly woven and subsequently embroidered bride's blankets; 

 figured sashes and kilts used as men's ceremonial costumes ; a woman's 

 wool blanket dress, colored blue and with embroidered borders; a 

 child's dress blanket, and a blanket tassel. (PI. 16.) 



Plaiting with the finger's, as well as the simplest loom work, is 

 done by persons sitting or stooping. The feet are not used, either in 

 decussating the warp or in throwing the shuttle. A simple har- 

 ness of wood is provided, or one is made by seizing each alternate 

 warp thread and attaching it to a rod. The Zufii woman weaver of 

 New Mexico uses a heddle of reeds pierced in the middle. The at- 

 tachment of the w^arp to her belt and to a stick resting against the 

 soles of her feet is an ingenious provision for the tension. The 

 shuttle is a short stick and the batten is a wooden sword. Patterns 

 in belts are wrought by a process of darning the alternate sheds. 



The Pima-speaking tribes live on the Gila and Salt Rivers. South 

 of the Pima live a closely related group, the Papago, whose territory 

 extends well into northern Mexico. These tribes are less given to 

 the peaceful arts than are the Navaho and may be designated as 

 gatherers so far as pertains to their food habits. 



The Yuma or Maricopa, Mohave, and other southwestern tribes 

 ai'e nearly identical in culture and speech. This does not apply to 

 another immigrant group, the Utes, who occupy the territory north of 

 the San Juan River. Their linguistic relationship with the Hopi 

 is also shared with another Shoshonean tribe, the Chemehuevi. 



The Jicarilla and Mescalero Apache and the Utes dress much as 

 do the western Plains tribes, and their habits generally are those of 

 the bison hunters of the Plains. The Apache Indians living in 

 Arizona and New Mexico have been in contact with white people 



