INDIAN COSTUMES KRIEGER 649 



The non-Pueblo Tribes of the Southwest have a less specialized 

 culture than that of the Pueblo Tribes. An exception might be 

 cited in the case of the Navaho, who cultivate the soil and are noted 

 for the excellence of their weaving and for their success in herding 

 of sheep. Their basketry is not remarkabje and is inferior to that 

 of some of the other non-Pueblo Tribes. The Navaho loom is crude, 

 but the work is much sought after, and strong fabrics are produced. 

 In the exhibit (pi. 18) examples of the loom and tools and blankets, 

 saddles, rugs, cinches, belts, and garters are shown. 



The Navaho prepare the wool of the sheep entirely by hand. 

 Their spindles are of the simplest kind and are so designed that the 

 Jowest end must rest on the ground. The beams for the warp, the 

 rude harness for making the sheds, the shuttle made from a long 

 rod without notches at the ends, and the batten sword removed after 

 each weft thread is laid all place this loom among the simplest ever 

 devised. (PI. 19.) 



The costume of the Navaho consists of a pretty woven blanket 

 dress, belt, and of legging moccasins. Men wore war hats like those 

 of the Zuili ; otherwise the man's costume was Jike that of the Plains 

 Indian. It consisted of a skin shirt, leggings, and moccasins. Belts 

 of silver plaques and much other jewelry of shell beads and silver 

 is worn. 



The older specimens of the fine weaving of the Navaho are far 

 superior in color and design to the modern samples of weaving. 

 The introduction of bright aniline dyes and made-to-order patterns 

 has brought about the virtual extinction of the ojd art. The Navaho 

 weaving industry has now reached an economic phase and is one of 

 the chief supports of the tribe. 



Practically all of the Navaho blankets are made by the women, 

 who must also care for the sheep and shear them in season, and even 

 then the woman's share of the work has only just begun, for she 

 must later carry the wool to camp. Fortunately the summer camp 

 or hogan — in reality nothing more than a rough shelter — is con- 

 veniently located. 



After the wool has been taken from the sheep, it is usually washed 

 and then hung over near-by grease-wood bushes to dry. There are 

 some black sheep in the herds of the Navaho, and to the black and 

 white colors of the natural wool and the few native dyes employed 

 there have been added the store aniline dyes. The wool of the black- 

 colored fleece has a tinge of red, so that it must be dyed to produce 

 a jet-black color. Twigs or leaves of sumac are boiled for several 

 hours; to the resulting liquid is added burnt ocher and piiion gum, 

 and the mixture is continually heated until a charred powder re- 

 mains, giving a native black dye for coloring textiles and tanned 

 hides. Old blue from Spanish indigo gave the shade of blue seen in 



