654 ANNUAL KEPOET SMITHSONIAlsr INSTITUTION-, 192 8 



general mottled effect. The shirt is of deerskin, ornamented with 

 short, cut fringes, bands of beadwork, fringes of ermine skin, red 

 feathers, and dyed horsehair. The leggings accompanying this shirt 

 are of deerskin, adorned with a cut fringe, band of beadwork, ermine 

 skins, horsehair, and red feathers. 



If we turn to the southern Plains we find several typical tribes 

 of the area, one of which is the Cheyenne. The Cheyenne are south- 

 ern Algonquians who live in Oklahoma, and their arts and modes of 

 life resemble those of their neighbors of the Plains, especially the 

 Arapaho, to whom they are related by speech. The specimens shown 

 are costumes, robes, painted rawhide cases, lances, shields, and cradle, 

 all ornamented with paint, feathers, beads, and elk teeth. A buffalo 

 skull from a sun-dance altar is placed on the floor of the case. (PI. 

 22.) A number of objects of dress within the exhibit illustrate the 

 variety of decoi-ative work in quills of the porcupine. Quill work 

 preceded largely work in beads, as quills were easily dyed and en- 

 abled the artist to combine colors. They were applied in many differ- 

 ent stitches to inoccasins, shirts, leggings, belts, pouches, knife 

 sheaths, cradles, birch-bark trays, boxes, fringes, necklaces, etc., of 

 Avhich some examples are shown in this and other cases. 



The Arapaho live in Oklahoma with their kinsmen, the Cheyennes, 

 although originally they lived on the northern boundary of the 

 United States. The specimens in the case illustrate clearly how much 

 their arts must have changed in their transfer to the lower latitude, 

 since at present their material culture is that of the Plains. The 

 exhibit (pi. 23) consists of costume, robes, cradles, painted-rawhide 

 cases, lances, and ceremonial objects. 



The Kiowa Indians also live in Oklahoma. Their language is 

 distinct, but their arts, at the time when they were studied, were, in 

 the main, uniform with those of the Plains tribes, though in symbol- 

 ism and heraldic art the Kiowa have a system of their own. The 

 exhibit (pi. 24) contains a costume of deerskin, colored by rubbing 

 with blue mineral paints, headdresses, lances, shields, painted raw- 

 hide cases, beadwork, cradle board, flute, and shinny stick. 



A complete costume for a Kiowa man was collected by James 

 Mooney in 1893. (Cat. No. 152841, U. S. N. M.) It includes nine 

 pieces — hair clasp, hair rolls, earrings, necklace, shirt, breastplate, 

 sash, breechclout, leggings, moccasins, hair wheel, and bead strings. 

 The shirt is of buckskin, painted green and ornamented with cut 

 fringes in blue and beadwork; shoulder ornaments of oriole skin 

 and feathers; loggings of buckskin trimmed with cut fringe, red 

 flannel, and beadwork; beaded moccasins with fringed flaps; and 

 beads of several colors. 



Another man's suit from the Kiowa consists of a shirt of buckskin 

 with sleeves and a triangular breast piece with cut fringes, leggings 



