NORTH INDIA WOOD 313 



that glorious combination of verdure covered mountain, valley, 

 lake, and river that constitutes charming Kashmir. Of the larger 

 gardens laid out by them in the neighborhood of Srinigar the most 

 famous is the Shalimar, a few pictures of which my camera vainly 

 attempts to portray. Artificial and highly ornamental canals supply 

 water for irrigating purposes and for the fountains, whose sprays 

 and rills still dot the landscape and add their coolness to the sur- 

 rounding air. Of the kiosks that remain after a lapse of three cen- 

 turies and that still adorn the Shalimar, the beautiful colonnaded, 

 marble pavilion of Shah Jahan is the most noticeable. Fed by an 

 aqueduct that in imperial days brought an abundant supply of water 

 to the gardens, this architectural gem is the center of attraction in 

 this lovely garden. 



The Shalimar is the chief holiday resort of the Kashmiri living 

 in the capital city, some 3 miles distant. Here one meets a decorous, 

 merrymaking crowd who, arriving in boats on the Dal Lake as well 

 as by bullock cart and on foot over a picturesque highway, bring 

 their food and picnic the happy, livelong day. 



We had the unusual opportunity of being guests of the present 

 maharajah when he celebrated in these gardens his accession to the 

 throne of Jummu and Kashmir. He invited to this celebration sev- 

 eral of the neighboring chiefs, their wives, and attendants, all of 

 whom were housed in gorgeous tents whose floors were covered with 

 priceless carpets and rugs. The few Europeans, officials in particu- 

 lar, turned out in their best. But who could compete with the multi- 

 colored silks, turbans, and flashing jewels of the native chieftains 

 and their entourage? 



Drinks of all kinds (except the alcoholic), sweetmeats, and cakes 

 were passed to the guests, and in surroundings of natural and arti- 

 ficial splendor, which we never hope to see again, an unforgettable 

 afternoon was passed. On the way home in the summer evening the 

 boatmen of our gaily curtained shikara, still under the influence of 

 the lively scenes we had just left and to the accompaniment of many 

 curious instruments played by musicians in our own and hundreds 

 of other boats, sang as we paddled along. The gardens of Dal Lake 

 certainly deserve to be classed among the prime attractions of north 

 India. 



During my residence in Kashmir, I had distant views of one of the 

 largest birds in the world, tlie Himalayan bearded vulture {Gypaetus 

 harhatus hemachalanus Hutton), sailing slowly along the high moun- 

 tain sides toward Little Thibet. I have also had several opportuni- 

 ties of discussing the habits of this wonderful bird with naturalists 

 who had succeeded in securing specimens. One of these, a friend 

 who lives in Airra durinff the winter and in Simla during the sum- 



