674 EXPLORATIONS IN MONGOLIA AND TIBET. 



the inhabited parts of Thibet, so that my ethnological researches could 

 be successfully carried on. 



While waiting- here on the Dang ch'u for the arrival of the Nag ch'u 

 officials, I was visited by some natives from the left bank of the river, 

 and I learned from them that they and the tribes to the east of them 

 were not subject to Lh'asa, and that by traversing their country (called 

 Jyade or "Chinese Province") I could reach the important town of 

 Ch'amdo, on the highroad to China, whence I would be able to continue 

 my journey commodiously to Tachien-lu in Ssil-ch'uiui. 



I at once made up my mind to follow this route, only waiting to see 

 the Nag ch'u officials to satisfy my curiosity, and possibly pick up some 

 interesting details concerning them, their country, and its customs. 



On the 27th of July, I crossed the Bang ch'u and was kindly received 

 by the chief of the Pere band, who, on the following day, introduced 

 me to one of the big chiefs or Debas of the country, Norjyal-tsan by 

 name, who was about to start for his home, a fortnight's ride to the 

 east and on the road to Ch'amdo. 



It was arrauged, after a short consultation and the presentation to 

 him of some presents (50 ounces of silver, some knives, red lacquer 

 rice bowls, etc.), that he would take me with him, and see to all my 

 wants on the way. On reaching his home he would further supply me 

 with a guide as far as Mer djong, the first locality on Ch'amdo terri- 

 tory, beyond which neither he nor his people ever went; and he gave, 

 among other reasons, for this that, while the Ch'amdo people professed 

 lamaism, he and the people of Jyadt' followed tlie Bonbo religion, the 

 modern and corrupt form of the old pre-Buddhistic shamanism, which 

 has, at one time or the other, prevailed over all Asia. 



Since leaving the Ts'aidam in May, I had continually travelled over 

 country with an average altitude of about 15,800 feet above sea level, 

 frequently crossing ridges and plains considerably higher. On leaving 

 the Dang ch'u we very gradually descended till we reached near 

 the Eama-ch'u, the timber line on the 12th of August, something 

 over 13,000 feet above sea level. At this altitude cultivation also be- 

 gan, barley and turnips being the only crops. These are eked out by 

 the use of seeds of several kinds of plants found growing in profusion 

 on the hillsides. Above this altitude the people subsist entirely on 

 what their flocks and herds of yaks can supply them, the neces- 

 sary tsamba and tea, being ])rocured by tlieni at Lh'asa or from traders, 

 who annually visit these regions. The principal article of trade of the 

 Namru and other adjacent tribes is salt, procured by evaporation from 

 some of the large lakes to the west of the Dang la and brought thence 

 on the backs of sheep, each one carrying about 25 pounds. All the salt 

 I have seen in these parts is of a brick-red color and very impure. 



On the 20th of August, we reached Mer djong gomba on Ch'amdo 

 territory, having traversed the whole of Jyadc without any mishaps, 

 and having met everywhere with the greatest courtesy and kindness 

 from the chiefs and people. The country round Mer djong is, where- 



