226 



REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM, 1902. 



parallel to each other, across the face of the cloth. In Manket twill 

 every third thread is crossed. In some fabrics -t, 5, 6, 7, or 8 threads 

 are crossed. In fall satin twill there is an interval of 15 threads, the 

 warp {(yrganzine slllv) being floated over 15 threads of the woof {tram), 

 giving the glossy appearance. 



Twills require heddles equal in number to the threads that are 

 included in the intervals between the intersections. This disposition 

 of the warps in the heddles is termed mounting the loom, and the 



Fig. 9. 



twilled weaving. 



Cherokee Indians, North Carolina. 



heddles are termed leaves. A twill takes its name from the number 

 of leaves employed, as a three-leaf twill, a five-leaf twill, etc. 



Twills are used for the display of color, for strength, variety, thick- 

 ness, or durability. 



On a fragment of ancient pottery from Alabama, Holmes also 

 discovered marks of l)asketr3' in twilled weaving, as shown in 



It will be noticed that material of cat-tail or split cane was used. 

 The efl'ect shown in the tigure was produced by passing each weft 

 strand over three warp strands and under one on the side exhibited. 

 On the other side of the texture, no doubt, the process was reversed, 



