232 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM, 1902. 



of the weaver in the lower fig-nre is Elizabeth Propokoffono. Her 

 home is on the island of Atka, far out in the Aleutian chain. The 

 Tlinkit weaver sits on the ground in the old-fashioned way, because 

 her warp is rigid and self-supporting; Elizabeth, however, is working 

 in soft grass, both for warp and weft. For this reason the former is 

 suspended, and she is working from below upward. The Haida Indians 

 on Queen Charlotte Archipelago south of her, as will be seen later on, 

 weave in the same manner, the war]:) resting on a disk fastened to the 

 top of a stake. Enough of modern technical appliances are mingled 

 with this thoroughl}' aboriginal process to mark a sharp contrast 

 between the woman's lingers and her beautiful basket on the one hand, 



and her loom-woven clothing, her flat- 

 iron, and the iron hinges on her door 

 on the other hand. 



The upper figure is from the Attu 

 Island, also weaving a grass wallet in 

 twined work in front of her under- 

 ground home or barabara. It is most 

 interesting to observe that her Avork is 

 supported from a stick in the top of the 

 house, and is mounted precisely as one 

 shown in Phite 1, of Holmes's Prehis- 

 toric Textile Art, taken from Hai'iot,'^' 

 and illustrating industries of the eastern 



PLAIN TWINED WEAVING. _ » _ 



Indians at the period of discovery. 

 According to the relation of the weft elements to one another and 

 to the warp, different structures in twined weaving result as follows: 



1. Plain twined weaving over single warps. 



2. Diagonal twined weaving or twill over two or more warps. 



3. Wrapped twined weaving, or bird-cage twine, in which one weft element 

 remains rigid and the other is wrapped abont the crossings. 



4. Lattice-twined weaving, tee or Hudson stitch, twined work around vertical 

 warj)s crossed by horizontal warj) element. 



5. Three-strand twined weaving and braiding in several styles. 



1. Plain tunned weaving. — Plain twined weaving is a refined sort of 

 wattling or crating. The ancient engineers, who built o])structions in 

 streams to aid in catching or impounding fish, drove a row of sticks 

 into the bottom of the stream, a few inches apart. Vines and lirush 

 were woven upon these upright sticks which served for a warp. In 

 passing each stake the two vines or pieces of brush made a half turn 

 on each other. This is a very primitive mode of weaving. Plain 

 twined basketry is made on exactly the same plan. There is a set of 

 warp elements which may be reeds, or splints, or string, arranged 

 radially on the bottom and parallel on the body. The weft consists 



« Thirteenth Annual Report of the Bureau of Ethnology, 1896, Plate 1. 



