308 EEPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM, 1902. 



inside. These specimens are Cat. Nos. 204258, collected by Mrs. 

 Carolyn G. Benjamin; and Nos. 19286 and 10282, collected by Living- 

 ston Stone. 



Akin to the "beading," so common in the Eraser River coiled bas- 

 ketr}^ to be mentioned, is an ornamental effect produced in twined 

 work by the onlaying of colored straws in regular geometrical designs 

 and catching the angle under the strand of the weft. Holmes " figures 

 an example of this from the Klamath Indians in northwestern Cali- 

 fornia, a rare process in North American Indian basketry. (See fig. 

 102.) It reminds one of the stamps for printing tapa cloth used in the 

 Polynesian area. 



Beading is the insertion of narrow strips of prettj^ grass or other 

 material into the sewing of coiled baskets, passing it under one, over 

 the next, and so on. Plain beading produces a broken line of dark 

 and light color alternating, and shifts the direction of the elemental 



figure from vertical to hori- 

 zontal. If several rows are 

 made, figures are produced by 

 the process of twilled weaving. 

 The basket maker may pass 

 her filament over and under as 

 many stitches as she chooses; 

 she may make the elements 

 of an}' row inimediatel}' over 

 those of the preceding row, or 

 BEADING ON TWINED WORK. thcy may alternate. The Fra- 



Kiamath Indians. ger Rivcr Salish are adept in 



After W.H. Holmes. ^j^j^ ^^^ ^^^^^^ ^f ^J^g-^. -j^^^^^.J, 



cated baskets. Especially on the ware whose coils have flat founda- 

 tions is beading effective. (See fig. 103.) 



{d) liaise embroide7"y. — This is a method of ornamentation in which 

 the outer surface of a twined basket is covered wholly or in part with 

 designs, but they do not show on the inside. The Tlinkits excel in 

 this, calling it uh tah yark tu twage (outside lifted up and put around). 

 It has the appearance of being sewed on after the weaving is done. 

 The process is described on the next page, and many figures in this 

 paper show examples of it. Plates 71 and 74, in color, demonstrate 

 more plainly how effective false embroidery may be made. The body 

 of all Tlinkit and Haida ware is in dull-brown shade of spruce root. 

 The saving feature which lends itself cheerfull}^ to ornamentation is 

 the plialjility and even fiber of the young roots. Nothing can be more 

 pleasing to the eye than a fine old Haida hat, its surface covered with 

 intricate patterns. The Tlinkit false embroider}^ in subdued colors, 

 yellow, red, and black, contrasts harmoniousl}" with the cinnamon- 



« Sixth Annual Report Bureau of Ethnology, p. 227, fig. 331. 



Fig. 102 



