408 REPORT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM, 1902. 



3. Diag-onal twined weaving-, Hiktch hee ha r-see (rough or uneven, 

 like tlie skin of the frog's back, from its mottled character), is formed 

 by the simple twining of two woof strands about pairs of warp ele- 

 ments. The weave separates the pairs in each superimposed line of 

 woof, and breaks joints in the units of weave, just as in myriads of Attn 

 and Ute baskets. (See Plates 96, lis.) It is, in fact, w^ell-known twilled 

 weaving. This weave was never extensively used among the Tlinkit, 

 except as a skip stitch in conjunction with the ordinary twining (No. 

 1), whereby a number of geometric figures are produced which form 

 the ornamentation of the Haida hat rim and the Chilkat basket border. 

 As a weave it seems to have been confined to the double basket. 



Shuck kuhk (straw^berr}' basket) has erroneously been classed as a 

 type of weave, but it is simply a variation of the regular twined weave 

 (No. 1), in which the woof strands are of different colors, so that in 

 both the vertical and the horizontal lines there is produced a variety 

 of effects, supposed to resemble the seed-covered surface of the wild 

 strawberry. This character of ornamentation is more commonly 

 found in hands on the women's workbasket and on mats of basket 

 covers. The ffecking of the surface of twined ware with dark and 

 light spots is not confined to the Tlinkit, but will l)e o()served among 

 all Western tribes that have this weave. 



4. Crossed- warp twined weaving, Wark kus-ka rt ("ej^e holes" 

 from the polygonal meshes of the openwork weave), in which the warp 

 splints are drawn aside from the perpendicular at a fixed angle, the 

 odd numbers trending one way and the even numbers the other. These 

 cross each other successively in parallel series, just after which they 

 are inclosed and held in place by the ordinary twining of two-woof 

 strands. The size of the meshes is regulated by the distance apart of 

 the spirals of the weave. This tj^pe was used for rather long, flat 

 cases or bags, l)ut more particularly for spoon baskets, which are fit- 

 ted with a twisted root handle to hang them to hooks or pegs on the 

 wall. In later years ornamental baskets are often made in this weave. 



5. Three-strand twined weaving, Uh ta'hk-ka (twisted). This gives 

 a longer winding, rope-like appearance to the weave outside, while 

 on the inside the regular twining stitch in its ridge-like regularity is 

 seen. It is strengthening as well as decorative and is often met with 

 in circles at intervals near the bottoms of the larger, older baskets, 

 which are required for the heavier work. It is in general use to-day 

 as a single line of woof around the outer circumference of the cylin- 

 der Ijasket, w^here the warp splints are bent upward to form the 

 sides. Its more important use has been in the construction of the 

 crown of the hat as well as of the cylindrical ornaments surmounting 

 it, and other ceremonial headdresses among both the Haida and the 

 Tlinkit. 



The Tlinkit do not seem to have learned, or were forbidden by 



