420 REPOKT OF NATIONAL MUSEUM, 1902. 



thuH formed l)eing white upon one side and l)laok upon tlie otlier. These double 

 strands are used not only where figures appear, but througliout tlie groundwork 

 of the design as well. The figures are principally black upon a white ground. In 

 forming them the strands are simply reversed, the black sides which were con- 

 cealed beneath the grass spires in the white background being carried outward. 

 In some of the specimens the knob at the top is woven separately and afterwards 

 joined to the hat. (See figs. 152,153. ) 



Comparing the descriptions with tiio technical processes worked out 

 in this paper, it is evident that the Nutka trilies understood what 

 is called overlaying. It is not the Makah wrapped weaving nor 

 like the Nez Perce and other Shahaptian weave, 1)ut will be found 

 in the Modoc and other California tribes as well as abundantlj'^ 

 among the Salish. (See Plate 155, tig. 5.) The double hat is sug- 

 gestive of the Orient, from which the royal Spanish fleet returned 

 by wa}^ of Vancouver every 3'ear for two centuries (1570-1770). 



The National Museum has an example of twilled weaving from Van- 

 couver Island, which should bo compared with Clallam ware. It is a 

 large fish basket made from the split root of a cedar. Attempts at 

 ornamentation are, first, in using alternatcl}^ the smooth, natural 

 wood and the inner, coarse surface of the splint, also b}^ introducing 

 strips in cedar root with the bark adherent, and finally, hy laying on 

 the outside certain strips the leaves of bear grass. With this variety 

 of material, although the basket is as coarse as it can be, the effect is 

 excellent. The finishing ofi:' is in three rows of twined weaving, in 

 which black yarn and bear grass are laid on the fiber to give variety 

 and color. The upright elements in the weaving are bent down on 

 the inside and held together b}" a continuous row of buttonhole stitches. 

 On the border is a scallop formed ])y a two-strand rope which passes 

 underneath the l)order, back and through itself. Dimensions: height, 

 18 inches; width, 24 inches. Collected by G. T. Emmons. (See 

 Plate 152.) 



Plate 153 is a delightful mixture of two extremes in culture. Two 

 Makah or Nutka women are clad in calico, woolen blanket, piano cover, 

 bandana handkerchiefs, etc., not neglecting the latest patent in safety 

 pins. They are seated on a mat of cattail {Typha latlfoUa) stems, 

 sewed together ia genuine aboriginal fashion, known before Columbus. 

 And their fingers are following their conservative thoughts as though 

 these cunning weavers had been born centuries ago. They are making 

 from filanuMits of cedar bark and leaves of squaw grass the kind of 

 twined weaving called wrapped in this paper (figs. 18, 14). The warp 

 is plain, twisted from cedar bark. One element of the weft is of 

 the same material and laid horizontally inside the warp; the other 

 weft element, of scpiaw grass {Xeroj)hiiUvm timax), is wrapped in a 

 continuous coil al)out the intersections of the other two elements. 

 The photograph is from Capt. D. F. Tozier. 



