438 



REPORT OF NATIONAL MTtSEUM, 1902. 



in l BI»IIIIIII I IMMinllllillll/IIUIIfl|llllllllll|ll l lllimil i niM||llll^llllllll;lllllll|lllllllu. .^^ ^^^^^ ^^ 



work, proceeding from the ])ottom to the border. The ornamenta- 

 tion, in corn husk or other weak material, in the natural color or dyed, 

 is laid on externally by what is here called false embroidery. The 

 process was fully descri))ed and illustrated in speaking of Tlinkit weav- 

 ing (lig. 139, p. 410). This specimen should be compared with the 

 making of soft wallets among the Fraser River tribes, illustrated in 

 Teit's monograph, where the corn husk, instead of b(>ing wrapped 

 merely around th(^ outer element of the twine, passes around both 



strands and the tigure ap- 

 pears on the inside of the 

 receptacle, which is not true 

 of the Nez Ferce example. 

 Fig. 162 will show a square 

 inch of this wallet, the espe- 

 cial feature of which is that 

 while the rows of plain twin- 

 ing seem to be vertical in 

 the false embroidery, the}- 

 ^^^1 are inclined to the right. 



This specimen, Catalogue 

 No. 9026 in the U. S. National 

 Museum, was collected in 

 Idaho by Dr. Storrer. 



Flate 167 is an interesting 

 collection of women's hats. 

 Figs. 1 and 2 are Modoc 

 tw ined baskets from the Ben- 

 jamin collection. Catalogue 

 Nos. 201258 and 201259; 

 height, 5f inches. The foun- 

 dation is of rush. The weav- 

 ing is in the same material, 

 the designs being formed bj^ 

 regular overlaying in step 

 patterns, formed by piling 

 rhomboidal tigures upon one 

 another. Strips of bird quill are introduced into these patterns, 

 having been dyed a bright yellow, which gives life to the figures. It 

 may be repeated that both of these specimens are in plain-twined 

 weaving overlaid. All the other tigures on the plate are in wrapped- 

 twined weaving, as among the Makahs and other tribes of the Fraser- 

 Columbia region. 



Figs. 3 and 1 are women's hats of the Nez Perce and Walla- Walla 

 Indians, Shahaptian famil}^, Washington, Catalogue Nos. 23857 and 

 129680. The foundation is of hemp. The weft consists of strands 

 of hemp on the inside wrapped around with a lilament of squaw grass. 



Fig. 161. 

 twined wallet. 

 Nez Perce Indians, Idaho. 

 Collected by George Alnslee. Museum Textile 



