ABORIOTNAL AMERICAN 15ASKETRY. 538 



account of it: The JMiinavi (Panama) hat was first made in the province 

 of Manavi, F^cuador, about two hundred and seventy-tive 3'ears ag-o by a 

 native named Francisco Delgado. The present centers of the in<histry 

 are Monte Cristi and Jipijapa in the province of Manavi, and Santa 

 Elena and Cuenca in the provinces of Guayas and Azuay, respective!}'. 

 The}' came to ])e Ivnown as Pananja hats years ago when that city was a 

 distributing- center. Those who are familiar with them can tell ])y the 

 method of beg-iiuiing the work at the center of the crown the locality 

 where the work is done. In Ecuador, Colombia, and C'entral America 

 the hat is known to the natives as the Jipijapa (pronounced hipi-hapa), 

 but as they ar(» made elsewhere in Ecuador, principally in the province 

 of ]\Ianavi, and as the name is eas}^ to pronounce, it might take the place 

 of the ]H-esent misleading appellation. (See Plate 242.) 



They are made from a native species of palm {CajTlttdoi'led ^^nltnata). 

 It is cultivated in the provinces of Manavi and (iuayas and is known as 

 "paja toquilla." In appearance it resembles very much our saw pal- 

 metto; it is fan-like in shape. Low-lying w(>t land is selected and the 

 seed planted in rows during the rainy season. When thc^ plant attains 

 a height of \\ or 5 feet it is cut just l)efore ripening. The leaves are 

 boiled in hot water and aftei- being thoroughly sun dried are assorted 

 and ready for use. 



The material is lii-st carefully selected, dampened to make it pliable, 

 then yery tinely divided into recpiisite widths, the little tinger and 

 thumb nail being used for the purpose. The very finest specimens 

 are prepared from delicate^ leaves that need no splitting or stiffening. 

 The plaiting l)egins at the apex of the crown and is continued in cir- 

 cular form luitil the hat is finished. The story that they are made 

 under water l)y candle light is untrue. The work is carried on while 

 the atmosphere is humid, from al)out midnight to 7 o'clock in the 

 morning. At night the hat is hung out in the open air so that the 

 dew may fall upon it, and it is then in position to be worked the next 

 day. If the strand breaks it can be replaced and so plaited so as not to 

 aftect the work nor be yisil)le to the naked eye. The ingenious woman 

 uses her knee for a head ])lock. This antedates all modern appliances 

 for giving shape to head gear. It requires from three to five months 

 daily labor of three hours a day to make one of the finest hats. The 

 business in its highest development is really an art, requiring patience, 

 fine sight, and special skill — qualifications few of the natives possess. 

 The plaiting completed, the hat is washed in clean, cold water, coated 

 with a thin solution of gum, and polished with drj^ powdered sulphur. 

 They are so pliable that they can be rolled up without injury and put 

 in one's pocket. They will last for years and can be repeated!}^ cleaned. 



Natives of both sexes and all ages are engaged in this work at odd 

 times, the business being a side issue. Children make from raw, 

 undressed straw about two of the common hats a day. 



