160 RAMBLES OF A NATURALIST. 



strangest commentaries among the numerous groups 

 of lazzaroni, which were watching these incompre- 

 hensible preparations. As soon as our arrangements 

 were completed, we said a last farewell to the newly 

 found friends, who by their kind attentions had made 

 our stay at Palermo appear so short, and hastened to 

 take our places in the boat w^hich, at the captain's 

 command of Voga I glided rapidly through the water 

 that broke into foam beneath the strokes of our 

 six oarsmen. The captain, wdio sat crouched upon 

 our miniature quarter-deck, which was exclusively 

 devoted to him, guided the helm and directed our 

 course. We soon passed the entrance of the harbour, 

 which is protected by the Castello di Molo, and, 

 turnino^ the boat's head to the left, we advanced 

 towards the west. 



Our voyage commenced under favourable auspices. 

 The sky was clear, the sea calm, and our boat coasted 

 along one of the most enchantingly picturesque parts 

 of these lovely shores. Above us, conspicuous in 

 its wild grandeur, rose Mont Pellegrino, whose per- 

 pendicular sides descend abruptly to the very 

 water's edge. Half way up its inclined slope, the 

 Villa Belmonte proudly displays the somewhat fan- 

 tastic graces of its castellated gateways, its pavilions, 

 and its kiosques, loaded with ornaments in the 

 Sicilian style of architecture, and surrounded by 

 plantations of elegant shrubs, which overhang the 

 sea- washed rocks. Below, as if to contrast with 

 the works of art on the heights above, nature had 

 produced one of those beautiftd eifects which would 

 be a study to the painter. The porosity and unequal 



