THE COASTS OF SICILY. 195 



Templars, leads to the inference that these warrior- 

 monks may have presided over the erection of the 

 fortifications, which, although they may once have 

 been regarded as impregnable, notwithstanding their 

 low position, have lost all their value as means 

 of defence since the invention of artillery. For this 

 reason, the works were long since entirely abandoned. 

 The castle has fallen into ruins, and its crumbling 

 remains are given up to a population of beggars, 

 whom we saw lounging in rags upon the broken 

 steps of doors, still surmounted by proud armorial 

 devices. A stone bridge of two arches has replaced 

 the ancient drawbridge ; and the town, escaping from 

 its turreted enclosure, has spread in all directions 

 round the harbour, and even crept up the lower 

 heights of the mountain side, from whence, year by 

 year, straight and wide streets, bordered by two- 

 storied houses, are extending further and further 

 into the neighbouring fields. 



We had flattered ourselves that we should find 

 ample materials for observation and study at Castella- 

 mare, but from the very first day of our arrival 

 we discovered our mistake. In one direction we 

 found a long stretch of sand and boulders, while on 

 the opposite side of the gulf huge rocks descended 

 precipitously into the sea, exhibiting no trace of life 

 beyond a few isolated tufts of Fucus and an oc- 

 casional branch of Gorgonia and Caryophyllia. We 

 w^ere therefore under the necessity of planning a 

 speedy retreat before we were thoroughly settled in 

 our new quarters ; we resolved, however, first to 



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