THE COASTS OF SICILY. 203 



of the middle ages. A large and lofty square tower 

 pierced with narrow loop-holes, serves as a belfry; 

 the walls of this inaccessible donjon are so enormously 

 thick, that they look as if they would prove quite 

 strong enough to resist heavy artillery ; indeed they 

 seem as if it would need a regular siege to master 

 the building, however feeble the garrison might be 

 by which it was manned. At the foot of the tower 

 stand a few houses of recent date, whose numbers 

 are increasing rapidly now that there is nothing more 

 to fear from Algerine pirates. The relics of Santo- 

 Vito enjoy a vast reputation all along the coast, and 

 a great number of pilgrims come year by year to 

 seek relief from bodily and mental ills through their 

 miraculous virtues, giving their offerings in return 

 for these benefits, by which means the sanctuary 

 in which the treasures are preserved secures a con- 

 siderable annual revenue. 



The incumbent of this rich cure has the title of 

 Canon, and has his residence at the upper part of the 

 belfry. The remainder of the platform is occupied 

 by tolerably spacious rooms, destined for the accom- 

 modation of the pilgrims. We had reckoned upon 

 being able to install ourselves in these comfortable 

 quarters, but the lord of the mansion did not seem 

 at all disposed to share with us his aerial lodging. 

 He received us with a dry suspicious manner, and 

 did not even deem it necessary to employ any de- 

 monstrations of politeness in recommending us to 

 seek some better lodging than the small room which, 

 as he stated, was the only one he had to offer us. 

 This seemed scarcely to be the opinion of the house- 



