502 Count Vaij cle Vaya and Luskod [April X5, 



kuot and dressed in white enters. His long coat is of linen, his 

 head covered by a bell-shaped hat of horse-hair, which resembles in 

 shai)e the glass lid used to protect preserves from flies. 



This quaint servant seems more surprised at my question than I 

 at his livery. 



" But the army has been reorganised by European officers. It 

 has been taught, in the Western style, to march, manoeuvre and kill, 

 and for the performance of this gay farce, seats have been erected, 

 and now you, a European, coming from the West ask with obvious 

 irony, what does all this mean ? " 



I can see how amusing the whole situation is, and what a 

 ludicrous side it has. The fact of the collar being a few inches 

 deeper, or of the colour of the uniform, does not alter the character of 

 that uniform ; it is still a distinctive mark, even in its best edition. 



The rifle always destroys, whether the mechanism is new or old 

 that projects the ball, and whether or no a soldier is a couple of feet 

 taller — with a yellow or a white complexion — his calling is always a 

 gloomy one. For do we not consider that soldier most efficient who 

 destroys the greatest number of lives ? 



Dawn now turns out into morning and the doors of the shops open 

 one by one. Most of them are only protected for the night by mats 

 or a few planks. Later on the customers begin to arrive, all of them 

 dressed in white. Men and women alike wear long linen coats 

 (kaftans), and their lined foot-gear is also of linen — in fact they are 

 white from top to toe, excepting the black hat of horsehair. 



Now and again I see a sedan chair, which however is not larger 

 than a good-sized box — its occupant huddled up inside. I cannot 

 see any carriage, trap or horse, in spite of the growing traffic, which 

 however, is perfectly noiseless. Perhaps this may account for the 

 fact of my still being under the impression of being in a deserted 

 city. 



My First Walk through the City. 



It is generally on the first day that we catch the most character- 

 istic traits, or at any rate the most salient features strike our imagina- 

 tion. When our percej)tive powers are still fresh, they are most 

 influenced by little peculiarities. 



After breakfast I go out for a stroll, and find the palace gate in 

 front of me, outside which some soldiers are standing. Beyond it 

 stretches a long street towards which I turn. This is the same street 

 which yesterday resembled a vast graveyard. The houses now stand 

 open, as the wooden wall, looking on the street, has been removed. 

 There are a considerable number of shops, but small and mean, 

 displaying no wares that attract my attention. The cabinet makers 

 make the best show, consisting of small chests, with brass ornament- 

 ation, having large polished locks. These are no less quaint than 

 they are tasteful. 



They seem to sell well, for in a whole row I can see nothing else.. 



