190-1.] on First Impressions of Seoul. 603 



There is also no lack of seeds, but the baskets do not offer a quarter 

 of the variety of a Cliinese grocery. I do not think I saw any more 

 shops, at least any that I remarJced. They seemed small and empty, 

 never more than a couple of customers in the shop. 



What attracted especially my attention was the large number of 

 sentry-boxes. Every five or ten yards you came across a box with a 

 stubby black, red and yellow soldier inside, armed ! 



No matter where I turn there are sentry-boxes everywhere, to the 

 right, to the left, in front and behind me. Can it be a fact that a 

 whole army is required to keep this little folk in order ? 



Street Life. 



Xo sooner had I put this question to myself than I perceive a 

 disturbance. Some coolies carrying vegetables engaged in a battle 

 royal, and two boys pitching into each other. But the private stands 

 there unmoved. His look seems rather to approve than condemn. 

 He is evidently not intended to keep the j)eace ; this does not seem 

 part of his duties. So the coolies may fight as much as they like 

 among the cabbages. (The group, by the way, forms an interesting 

 picture, the coolies in white with the green loads on their backs in 

 the thick of the fray.) The smaller of the boys commences to cry as 

 blood is dripping from his forehead, but the soldier is not affected 

 by the sight of this either. I wonder if what he just muttered was 

 that the " Eed Cross " was not his business ? 



As I went on I heard more screaming and quarrelling, and wit- 

 nessed a few more little skirmishes. It was not until now that I 

 realised how unaccustomed I was to quarrels and fights, as in China 

 I never saw one man fighting another. They have there a civilisation 

 of thousands of years to thank for that. 



The Emperor's Neio Hall. 



I now approach a hall which is being repaired ; it has a pointed 

 roof and broad eaves, similar to those of the Palace at Pekin. 



Quite a forest of wood is stored up there in the shape of beams. 

 As I see with what precision the workmen make the various parts fit 

 together without the use of nails, I am delighted that the traditions 

 of ancient architecture are not yet extinct. 



I am now in the neighbourhood of the Eoyal Palace. In front of 

 the main gate is a large square which further on turns into a street, 

 with public buildings on either side. These are the ministerial 

 offices, where is spun the web of the Korean government. 



The Old Palace. 



Externally, the Palace has little to distinguish it. The fayade is 

 rather low and the walls are mud coated, while the gates are not 

 much better, in the Chinese style and crowned by tiles. The gates, 

 which are wide open, lead into a large inner courtyard, where there 



