506 Count Vay de Yaya and LusJcod [April 15, 



East. But this is only a shortcoming in my artistic sense ; as a 

 bnikling nothing can be said against it. In its way it is perfect. 

 But what struck me most was its cleanliness. The stone floor was 

 iis bright as a mirror. 



The bishop is away on circuit and will return only in ten days, 

 so the vicar received me. He showed me over the whole little colony, 

 the school, and convent and orphanage. But of these I will speak 

 more fully elsewhere. 



As I take my leave the sun was setting. The peaks of the en- 

 girdling hills were reflected in purple tints on the topaz sky. The 

 Mission down below in the dell appeared in a bluish mist, only the 

 cathedral cresting the hill. 



Returning home by a circuitous route I found the streets even 

 more thronged than in the morning. I glanced into a few shops, but 

 there is not much worth seeing. The furriers seem to be the busiest. 

 They are cutting out and sewing a number of tunics, capes tmd fur 

 coats. There are also a good many jackets, and still more without 

 sleeves to protect the chest and back. Over these they wear thin 

 white linen kaftans. No wonder they look like walking eider-downs. 



To the right I noticed a tavern, much like the Chinese roadside 

 inn. In the large open stable a row of small rough-haired horses 

 were standing with straw rugs on their backs. A coolie was carry- 

 ing water from the well in two brass vessels hanging on the ends of 

 a long pole. 



The pole does not, however, rest upon his shoulders, but is fastened 

 crosswise to his back. Man and load have the appearance of a living 

 pair of scales. 



Next came some unpretentious little barracks, which in their 

 smallness are after the pattern of the soldiers, a number of whom are 

 looking out of the windows. In the absence of any better occupation 

 they are chewing pumjjkin seeds. 



Now we arrive at the curiosity shops — several porcelain, a few 

 bronze articles, many tiles and a farrago of rubbish. 



On the cross-road some more barracks — a long low building. The 

 little men in front of it were wearing not only red collars but also 

 red dolmans. Here the cavalry are garrisoned. A little scrap of a 

 hussar was just galloping home. This warrior is not a whit taller 

 than Hop-o'-my-Thumb — his charger scarce larger than a well- 

 developed calf of two months. By the side of this toy hussar rattled 

 a formidable sabre which seemed in danger of pulling him down 

 from his horse. His seat is without that poor enough. On his 

 coming nearer I saw that the murderous instrument is an ordinary 

 cavalry sword. His uniform is the most checkered I ever saw, 

 though in this resf)cct all European nations are conspicuous enough. 



The dolman of the Korean hussar is of a cinnamon colour, his 

 collar and cuffs emerald green, and his breeches' stripes saffron. If it 

 was the plumage of a parrot that served the model they have attained 

 it most effectually. 



