216 GOLDFISH VARIETIES A^D 



The frame being trued up it is now bolted through the base, aquarium 

 cement being liberally supplied in the bolt holes and between the frame 

 and the base, all surplus being immediately wiped away. 



Soldering. The ordinary amateur is equipped neither with the fa- 

 cilities nor the experience to use a soldering iron to advantage. The 

 author has engaged in considerable aquarium construction and has usu- 

 ally been able to get along very well without an iron, its main use being 

 to clear surplus solder away more quickly than can be done with a file. 

 Before soldering, the surface is properly prepared by scraping and the 

 application of a flux composed of hydrochloric acid which has dissolved 

 as much zinc as possible. An alcohol blow-torch is satisfactory for small 

 work, but for the heavier construction a gasoline torch is better. When 

 the heat is applied and the liquid of the flux has boiled away, touch thp 

 heated surface occasionally with soft solder wire. Apply a little more 

 heat after first sign of melting, withdraw flame and proceed to quickly 

 solder. Where work is in a position so that it is difficult to hold the 

 pieces steadily in place while solder cools, an assistant can instantly "set" 

 it by pouring on a little water. If acid flux darkens the hands where it 

 touches, the stain can be removed by dilute ammonia water. 



Small Aquaria. Very compact, neat and substantial aquaria can be 

 made in the foregoing manner, but without projecting base — in fact with- 

 out slate at all. The bottom is self-contained concrete. The top frame 

 and upright corner posts are of 3/2 -inch angle brass, and the bottom frame 

 of 1-inch size. In the inside edges of this are soldered a few brass 

 screws. Now prepare a mixture of one part of Portland Cement to 

 two of clean sand, brought to a thick, mushy consistency by addition of 

 water. Lay the frame on a good, flat piece of glass and pour in the 

 cement to a depth of }i inch, seeing that it lays smooth, particularly 

 where the glass is to rest. 



After the cement is poured and smoothed it should be covered to be 

 allowed to dry slowly. In about two days the frame and base can be slid 

 off the glass. The screws soldered on inside will always hold the base 

 securely in place. To prevent free chemicals washing out of cement into 

 the aquarium water it is well to waterproof the inside of base before set- 

 ting glass in. This may be done by melting chips of paraffine under the 

 alcohol blow-torch, or by pouring on a mixture of paraffine dissolved in 

 warm gasoline. To prepare this mixture place a quart bottle of gasoline in 

 a butcket of warm water. Add two ounces of paraftine chips and stir until 

 dissolved. Keep the solution warm and saturate the base with it. W'hen 

 dry, place in glass as in an ordinary aquarium. 



