TROUT IN NOR WA Y 



17 



could manage without provisions till then. It was raining 

 heavily as we started away ; the clouds hung in great 

 heavy masses on the hills, blocking out all prospect, and 

 we were altogether dispirited at the journey before us. 

 Just as we were "shoving off," our landlord came running 

 down to say a gentleman who had just arrived wished to 

 ask if he might go with us ; our boat was full, but he 

 would sit in the bow and would be greatly obliged if we 

 would take him in. Of course we agreed, and a large 

 Norwegian gentleman in ponderous mackintoshes made 

 us a bow and stepped on board. He, like ourselves, was 

 out of spirits and sat silent for some time ; but after 

 a while the sun shot out as rapidly as the gas is turned 

 up at the pantomime, and with the same effect on the 

 performers. Our four rowers held up their heads and 

 put more power into their strokes ; our new friend shook 

 himself clear of his mackintoshes and addressed some 

 playful remarks to us which we did not understand ; all 

 our English tongues became loosened, and we were able 

 to turn our eyes to the glorious scenery we were slowly 

 passing through. It would be idle to attempt to describe 

 this portion of the marvellous fiord. No painter ever 

 depicted it — no panorama could ever hold it. By your 

 side the rocks, towering up now 2,000 now 5,000 feet, go 

 straight into the water which, within a yard of them, would 

 float the largest ship in the world ; over on the other side 

 it is the same. Yet, steep as the precipices are, they 

 are not bare rocks, for scanty trees and herbage clothe 

 them wherever a cranny offers support for a root ; nay, 

 on the ledges where the eye can see no sign, we are told 



