EAST NEPAL AND THE 8IKKIM HIMALAYA MOUNTAINS. 83 



(south of the Ganges) in the latter. Sikkim is hence the dampest 

 region of the whole Himalaya. 



Viewed from a distance on the plains of India, Sikkim pre- 

 sents the appearance — common to all mountainous countries — of 

 consecutive parallel (wooded) ridges, running east and west, 

 backed by a beautiful line of snowy peaks, with occasional 

 breaks in the foremost ranges, throuoh which the rivers debouch. 

 Any view of the Himalaya, especially at a sufficient distance 

 for the distant snowy peaks to be seen overtopping the outer 

 ridges, is very rare, from the constant deposition of vapours over 

 the forest-clad ranges during the greater part of the year, and 

 the haziness of the dry atmosphere of the plains in tlie winter 

 months. At the end of the rains, when the S.E. monsoon has 

 ceased to blow with constancy, views are obtained, sometimes 

 from a distance of nearly 200 miles. The angle subtended by 

 the giant peaks is so low (not a degree) that they appear like 

 white specks very low on the horizon, tipping tlie black lower 

 and outer wooded ranges, which always rest on a belt of haze, 

 and from the density, probably, of the lower strata of atmos- 

 phere, are never seen to rest on the visible horizon. The remark- 

 able lowness on the horizon of the whole stupendous mass is 

 always a disappointing feature to the new comer, who expects to 

 see dazzling peaks towering in the air. Approaching nearer, 

 the snowy mountains sink behind the wooded ones long before tlie 

 latter have assumed gigantic proportions, and when tliey increase 

 in size, they appear a sombre, lurid grey -green mass of vegetation, 

 with no brightness or variation of colour. There is no break in 

 this forest caused by rock, precipice, or cultivation ; some spurs 

 project nearer, and some valleys appear to retire further into the 

 heart of the first great cliain that shuts out all the country beyond. 

 No pines whatever are seen on the outer range of Sikkim, both 

 soil and climate being far too damp in the rainy season ; nor are 

 the colours of the foliage so varied and bright as tlie more per- 

 ennially humid forests of tropical shores, from the want of any 

 abundance of such palms as Caryota, tall Arecce, and of Arto- 

 carpi, or of orange-groves. 



As it is not my purpose to discuss here the tropical, or lower 

 zone of Sikkim, I shall at once transport the reader to the north 

 side of the first range of mountains. From here it will be seen 

 that the appearance of parallel ridges is due to the inosculating 

 spurs of long tortuous ranges that run north and south through- 

 out the whole length of Sikkim, dividing deep wooded valleys, 

 which form the beds of large rivers. The snowy peaks still look 

 like a long east and west range of mountains, at an average distance 

 of 30 or 40 miles from the outer range. Advancing into the country, 

 this appearance proves equally deceptive, and the range of snow 



G 2 



