JOUENAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ Febraiu7 22, 1872. 



liiuts will lie acceptable to some who have hitherto been un- 

 successful. 



Isoras are evergreen flowering slimbs, and therefore do not 

 reqnii'e to be dried-off in winter or to be allowed a period 

 of rest. They delight in a moist warm atmosphere, and in 

 abimdanee of bright sunshine ; in fact, exposing the plant to 

 the rays of the sun is highly necessai-y, in order that the 

 growth may be matured and the buds set. The Ixoras will 

 grow and bloom profusely in winter, as well as in summer, 

 although it is not advisable to force them much in winter, 

 especially if they are required for exhibition. If, however, 

 they are kept in a moist and warm atmosphere they will pro- 

 duce a quantity of bloom, which is very cheering in the di'eary 

 months of winter, aud whether flowering in the summer or 

 winter, their beautiful trusses are always acceptable. 



Before jiroceeding further I would again say, Do not attempt 

 to cultivate Ixoras imlcss you have a stove or hot-water pit 

 where they can have plenty of heat and atmospheric moisture, 

 and where you can apply the svi'inge freely. I know of no 

 other iilant that delights more in being freely and often syringed, 

 and frequent syringing wiU prevent the occurrence of those 

 enemies by which the Ixoras are most liable to be attacked — viz., 

 mealy bug, green fly, and brown scale. I do not believe any 

 bhght-eomposition is so effective as clean water, a sj'ringe, and 

 a heart to use it. The neglect of these has caused the untimely 

 end of many a beautiful plant, and I cannot impress too strongly 

 on the minds of amateurs and gardeners the necessity of fre- 

 quently using the syi-inge aud clean water. If they did so 

 they would not require half the bhght-compositions that are 

 now prepared, many of which injure the plants more than the 

 insects. 



Let us now suppose we have just purchased a healthy young 

 plant of an Ixora free from insects, and in a thriving state. 

 Give directions to the person you purchase it from that it 

 shall be warmly and securely packed, so that it may not be 

 injured in transport. When it arrives place it iu the stove, say 

 in a temperature of 65° to 75°, and see that it is regularly watered 

 and syringed with water of the same temperature as the house. 

 It is essential — to say nothing of the convenience — to have a 

 tank in every stove, so that the water used both in syringing 

 aud watering may be of the same temperature as the house. 

 In a week or two the plant, if aU go well, will begin to show 

 signs of fresh growth, and should, consequently, be examined 

 to see whether it requires shifting into a larger pot. If such 

 is necessaiy prepare the soU for potting. I have found the 

 best mixture to be eqiral parts of fresh turfy peat and half- 

 decayed turfy yellow loam, with a free admixture of sharp 

 sUver sand, adding a few lumps of charcoal about the size of a 

 walnut. 



Prepare the pot, placing three or four large crocks at the 

 bottom, then fill to a fourth part of the pot's depth with 

 smaller crocks, and place a layer of the roughest of the soU 

 over these. Tui-n the plant out of its pot, remove aU the old 

 crocks from the bottom of the ball, aud if the roots are matted 

 round the ball loosen them very carefully, so that you wiU 

 thus in some degree break the ball, for if this were left mi- 

 broken the plant might suffer in consequence of the water 

 being unable to pass through it. Place the plant in the middle 

 of the pot, and in such a position that the old ball will be 

 about an inch below the rim ; fill-in aU round with the com- 

 post, give the pot a few smart taps on the potttng-board, 

 and if the plant is a good-sized specimen use a rammer in 

 the shape of a thick stick a foot long, so that the soU may 

 be firmly and evenly pressed-in. Finish-off the top neatly 

 and evenly. All being now completed, replace the plant iu the 

 stove ; and if the foregoing hints are attended to I have every 

 reason to think that success will be certain. 



I may add that for estabUshed plants I have often found a 

 little manure water very beneficial, and, when I can obtain 

 them, I'use cow-droppings diluted in water, and used in a clear 

 state not more than once a-week. — T. B. 



FORCING VEGETABLES.— No. G. 



BHUBAEB, SEA-KALE, ASD MUSHEOOMS. 

 As the two first-named vegetables have been so often treated 

 of by Mr. Fish and other writers at different times, I feel that 

 it is unnecessary for me to go into the details of then- treat- 

 ment. I may, however, mention that although both Sea-kale 

 and Rhubarb are very successfully forced in more ways than 

 one, I still advise the old plan of forcing in the open ground 



as being the best both for produce and flavour. In that way 

 there is no mutilation of the roots, nor are the plants checked 

 or robbed of any of then- stored-up juices ; and if gradually 

 forced with a mild heat, as such vegetables always should be, 

 they will continue to produce a good second, and even a third 

 crop, without damaging to any great extent their power of pro- 

 ducing a successful one by forcing again the following year. 



But where there is a scarcity of heating material, such as 

 dung aud leaves, then the plan of taking up the roots and 

 forcing them in any artificially heated structirre may be resorted 

 to with good success. In making-up my out-door beds I avoid 

 using the manure too fresh, and if possible I mix half leaves 

 with it to prevent the produce from tasting of the manure. 

 In the case of Rhubarb and Asparagus I find that which is 

 sent to table irnblanched is much preferred to that which is sent 

 blanched, and is said to be of a much better flavour. This 

 I do not doubt, and it is certainly better in appearance when 

 it has a more natural colour. To very many growers, however, 

 economy in space and also iu forcing is absolutely necessary. 

 To such the method of taking up the roots and forcing them 

 iu close quarters is commendable, the way of doing which may 

 be found iu some of the back numbers of this Journal. 



Coming now to Mushroom-gi'owing, we have a more delicate 

 and important subject, of which I pm'pose treating iu detail. 

 I do not suppose I shah state anything but what most gar- 

 deners of good experience already know. Mushi-oom-growing, 

 however, is very much on the increase, and it is for the many 

 persons who do not know how to gi'ow Mushr-ooms that the 

 following directions are given. 



In order to be better understood, we will suppose that Mush- 

 rooms are required for table the whole year round, when it 

 wUl be proper to commence in the month of August, at the 

 time that out-door cultivation ceases. My plau is to first give 

 the Mushi-oom house a thorough cleansing by clearing out all 

 rubbish, washing the woodwork, aud whitewashing the walls, 

 by searching every hole or crevice for woodlice, crickets, and 

 other enemies to the Mushroom, aud by fumigathig with to- 

 bacco aud two or three times with suljihur, in order to destroy 

 any winged insect that is likely to prove destructive. A^Tiile 

 this is being done, collect aU the fresh horse-droppings that 

 are to be had from the stables until enough are procured for 

 the size of the bed. Place them in an open shed or under 

 some protection from wet, which should not in any case be 

 allowed to reach them, turn the manure frequently, and mix 

 it well. When the strongest heat has abated I add a third of 

 leaves partly decayed, and after mixing these well with the 

 dung I consider it is ready to form into abed. If the bed is to 

 be formed on the ground floor I first lay just enough rough 

 material to keep the manure clear of the cold earth, then put 

 on a layer 6 inches thick over the bed, and either beat it well 

 with a mallet, or even tread it if the mamrre will allow of it. 

 Afterwards I add another layer or two, and each time repeat 

 the operation of treading or beating down, so as to reduce the 

 bed to a solid mass of the requisite thickness, which with me 

 is generally from 1 foot to 14 inches. After this insert two or 

 three trial sticks into the bed, and examine them frequently. 



If all go on well, in five days or a week the bed will be fer- 

 menting mildly and regularly. When the proper heat has 

 been secured uniformly over the bed, which can be very neaiiy 

 ascertained by the trial sticks or else by a thermometer, which 

 should indicate 80° F. or even 85° Fah., the bedmay be prepared 

 for spawning. First harden the surface by gently beating with 

 the spade, and then make holes with a large wooden dibble 

 about .3 inches square with a small but short point. These 

 should be about 2 inches deep, 3 inches in diameter, and about 

 8 mches apart, and at regular intervals all over the bed. 

 Allow the bed to remain in this state about two days, when 

 the inside of the holes will be dry aud in a fit state to receive the 

 spawn, which may be put-in in one piece or several. Every 

 hole should be filled with it, and have it well beaten into 

 them afterwards. Cover the bed with a thiu layer of the short 

 dung, and make it firm and level. In about ten days or ai 

 fortnight examine the holes, and if the spawn has spread 

 well into the material of the bed it may be earthed-over and 

 finished-ofif. 



I think it will be well to say a few words on earthing the 

 beds, because on this their success or failure greatly depends. 

 In the first place, the earth used should be a rich, moderately 

 retentive maiden loam. If this be too light it will not remain 

 firm on the bed, the Mushrooms will therefore be weak 

 and of inferior quaUty, aud the bed will cease bearmg much 

 earlier ; but if the soil be heavy it can be made solid on the 



