JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ March 7, 1872. 



be in all collections. A well-grown specimen is worthy of all 

 the comuieudatoiy superlatiTes that can be bestowed upon it, 

 but to keep it in "good health a position free from draughts 

 must be chosen for it in the stove. A. Sanctai-Catherinre is a 

 free-growing species, and makes a noble specimen for exhibi- 

 tion. A. formosum succeeds in the greenhouse, and the fronds 

 last a long time after being cut. A. colpodes is a very free- 

 growing, pretty, gi-eenhouse species, and has the young fronds 

 tinged with red. A. tiuctum has the young fronds more deeply 

 tinged than in the above, but it is not free-growing. But by 

 far the best of the tinged or tinted species is one I met with 

 the other day in the nm-series of Messrs. Veitch, at Chelsea. It 

 is of fi-ee growth, the fronds are much larger and more elegant 

 than those of A. colpodes or A. tinctum, and of a deep red colour 

 in a young state ; it is named A. Veitchiauum. I remarked at 

 the same time A. peruvianum as a noble-growing species allied 

 to A. trapeziforme. It will, no doubt, make a handsome speci- 

 men for exhibition, as it is of vigorous growth, and the fronds 

 have a remarkably pendant character, giving the whole plant 

 a distinct and fine effect. A. sessilifolium is also a very well- 

 marked species of a deciduous character. The fronds are 

 freely produced, and very handsome. 



Amongst Aspleniums, A. cicutarium and A. formosum have 

 very graceful recurved fronds, and are valuable table plants. 

 Cheilanthes is a genus noted for its very elegant and finely- 

 divided fi'onds. Davallia is also a noted genus with fronds of 

 a very graceful character. At the head of this class stands the 

 recently-introduced D. Mooreana. It is one of the most beau- 

 tiful and valuable of Ferns, with gracefully-arching fronds 

 from 2 to 3 feet in length, and half as much across. From 

 the largest of the species we come to the smallest, D. parvula, 

 a warm stove species, the fronds of which are only 3 inches 

 in height, freely product d on a creeping rhizome. Gymno- 

 gramma has gold and silver fronds of a very distinct and 

 striking character. The tnie G. chrysophylla is very handsome. 

 G. Laucheana has fronds of the deepest yellow. The best 

 sUvery species I am acquainted with is G. peruviana argyro- 

 phyUa ; and next to it G. tartarea. G. Pearcei isan exqaisitely 

 beautiful species, with very finely-divided fronds of a distinct 

 character. Lejitopteris superba is a greenhouse Fern, and 

 requii'es to be grown under a glass shade. It, however, de- 

 serves all the care that can be bestowed upon it. Lomaria 

 gibba, and its variety Belli and crispa, must be in aU collections. 

 Then the Chmbing Fern.Lygodiiim scandeus, will find a place 

 on account of its unique character. Todea peUucida and 

 T. Wilkesiana require the same treatment as Leptopteris su- 

 perba, and should have a glass frame devoted to them in the 

 greenhouse. Amongst Pteris we would select P. serrulata, as 

 it grows freely either in the stove or greenhouse, though the 

 handsomest specimen I have ever seen was said to have been 

 grown out of doors. These are a few names out of the many, 

 and are selected from those I have cultivated, or those which 

 have come imder my own notice. The graceful Gleicheuias are 

 omitted because they requii'e special treatment ; and also the 

 noble tree FeS'ns, as they require large structures to grow them 

 in. Those I have named are all adapted for ordinary stove 

 or greenhouse cultivation. — J. Douglas. 



SPEINa TREATMENT OF AUEICULAS. 

 An observation made by one to whom we all as readers of 

 the Journal are much indebted, and whose instructions we are 

 generaUy ready to foUow, Mr. W. Keane, has induced me to 

 say a word or two on the above subject. I am very sorry to 

 dilier from so experienced an adviser, but I must fain do so. 

 In his ad\ice as to the treatment of Auriculas he says, " Let 

 them have gentle showers," or words to that effect. Now from 

 this I entu-ely dissent ; and I maintain that the Amicula ought 

 never to have a drop of rain, and least of all in the spring. 

 Every grower of this beautiful flower knows that its greatest 

 enemy is damp, and that his efforts are dii-ected to the great 

 end of giving it a free and open situation, keeping it free from 

 drip, and not allowing water to settle in the heart of the plant. 

 Unless you ai-e for ever near your frames, it is impossible to do 

 this and yet let them have any rain. If you leave directions 

 with your man that they are to have only gentle showers, you 

 wiH find some day to your cost that his idea of a gentle shower 

 differs very widely from yours ; just as my old man at Deal, 

 who, when I told him they must not be exposed to too much 

 cold wind, shut them up close, burned them up, and then told 

 me calmly he thought the maggot had got to them. Hence, 

 for the safety of your collection, I strongly advise no showers. 



But even if you allow them to get rain under your own eye, 

 the drops will settle in the heart of the plant, and then canker 

 and decay take place. Rain may possibly run off the plain- 

 foliaged plants, but those with the mealy foliage retain it very 

 pertinaciously, and nothing will free them of it except taking 

 the plant up and blov.-ing the water off. Then, too, I think 

 that to allow the mealy-fohaged plants to become spotted with 

 rain entirely destroys their beauty. I grudge even when water- 

 ing that the outside leaves should get any on them, and should 

 sadly grieve if the beautiful young leaves were to be thus in- 

 jured. 



I should like to know if aU Auricula-growers share my 

 opinions on this point. I have before me a letter from a son 

 of that (in his day) well-knon-n florist, Dr. Horner, who has 

 evidently imbibed his father's taste, and is an enthusiastic 

 florist. He says, " Even in this fine brachig air I never 

 allow my Auriculas to have wet overhead. I do not even like 

 my mealy grass si)lashed at any time, nor a wet heart for even 

 a day among any of them." I know, too, that this is the 

 opinion of the veteran grower George Lightbody. 



I hope Mr. Keane wiU pardon these remarks on so small a 

 point, but as I believe it to be one of imjiortance to the suc- 

 cessful growing of this lovely spring flower I could not well be 

 silent. — D., Deal. 



CHEAP SPEING GAEDENING— PLANTS TO BE 

 EAISED FEOM SEED. 



Plants of which the seeds should be sown in a border rather 

 thinly a month hence, or in pots, boxes, or pans now, placed 

 in a pit or cold frame, and the seedlings to be pricked out 

 afterwards, and then transplanted in the autumn or early 

 spring : — 



Anemones, of the coronaria and the hortensis kinds. Many 

 will show bloom in autumn. 



Arabis (Wall Cress), several kinds, prick out and lift in 

 autumn. 



BeUis (Daisies), white and red are most useful. Prick them 

 out, and many wUl show their colours in autumn. 



Cerastiums. Good for carpeting and edgings. They are best 

 propagated by cuttings, which if planted iu a border will soon 

 root. Seedlings to be pricked out. 



Cheiranthus ("WaUflowers). Sow iu the open air. Prick out 

 and move in autumn to the place. 



Eranthis (Winter Aconite). Sow as soon as the seeds are ripe. 

 In the first, and especially the second autumn, they will be fit 

 for the flower garden. 



Myosotis (Forget-me-not). Sow in June and July, prick out, 

 and "then lift where wanted. There are several good varieties, 

 white and blue. 



Primroses sown iu April and pricked-out, will make strong 

 plants by the autumn. Polyanthus the same. 



Violets (Sweet), are most readily obtained from divisions 

 planted and then lifted, but the single varieties ailso come up 

 freely from seed, and the seedhngs will make good plants before 

 the spring. I find, however, that cuttings or divisions bloom 

 most freely. 



Pansies. Many, such as the CUveden Blue, Yellow, Purple, 

 and White, come rather true from seed. The Enghsh and Fancy 

 or Belgian varieties are easily raised. Sown in July and August, 

 not too thickly, they would show their colours so as to be trans- 

 ferred to the flower-beds in autumn and spring. Seeds to be 

 sown iu summer andautiimn, and the seedlings lifted iu i^atches 

 for the flower garden late in autonin or early in spring. 



CoUiusia bicolor, grandiflora, and verna. The end of August 

 would be quite early enough. 



Erysimum Peroffskianum. Bather lanky, about 2 feet high, 

 but the flowers of a flue orange colour. The beginning of 

 September will be soon enough to sow. 



Iberis (Candytuft), of aU the colom-s wiU be early enough if 

 sown at the beginning of September. 



Lasthenia californica. Sow at the same time as the preceding. 



Limuanthes Douglasii. The same remark appUes to this. 



Myosotis. Different colours of Forget-me-not. For spring 

 blooming, sow from June to August. 



Nemophilas. The whole are worthy of a place in a spring 

 garden, though insignis is the best. Sow at the beginning of 

 September, and transplant in patches. 



Sapouaria calabrica, calabrica alba, and the dwarf er ocymoides 

 are useful. Sow at the end of August, and hft the seedlings in 

 tufts in autumn or early in spring. 



Silene peudula, pendula alba, rubeUa, Schafta, and other 

 dwarf kinds, maybe sown at the end of August and the beginning 

 of September. 



I have omitted, I find, two useful annuals. Sweet Alyssum, or 

 Alyssuni maritimum, white and rather straggUng, but it stauds 

 pruning weU, and smeUs like so many exposed honeycombs. 



