238 



JOTJBNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



[ JIarch 14, 1872. 



to prove successful. I liave no doubt it would prove useful to 

 many readers of your Journal. 



I BOW the Peas in diills as usual, and carefully watcli for 

 their appearance. As soon as I detect them I take a flat hoe 

 or rake, and draw about half an inch to 1 inch of soil over 

 them ; and as soon as they again make then- appearance I take 

 a rake, and cai-efully draw the rake through the rows crossways, 

 and expose them all at once about half an inch to 1 mch high. 

 I prefer doing this the first thing in the morning, and as soon 

 as they b«giu to get a little green I mould them up a Uttle and 

 stick them. I have seen spaiTows come to them as soon as 

 they have been exposed, and look very surprised, and hop 

 between them and fly about them, but never offer to touch 

 them. It is as they are coming through that the damage is 

 done. The rake should be drawn through steadily, or you wUl 

 break some of the Peas off. — W. F. Hunt, Gardener, iloselfij. 



WORK FOR THE WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



If not ah'eady done dress A-ipariiffiis beds with hght decom- 

 posed manure, and fork lightly over, taking care not to 

 injure the crowns. Many persons at this time apply salt in 

 the proportion of about a pound to the square yard. It is, 

 however, more advisable to postpone the salting operation until 

 the cutting is over and the plants are in a gi-owing state, as 

 then they are in the best condition to receive the benefits of 

 the application, and the crowns are gi-eatly strengthened for 

 the following season. The beds intended for new plantations 

 must be frequently turned, so as to be in readiness for receiving 

 the young roots as soon as they have gi'own to 2 or 3 inches. 

 Qlohe Artichokes should now be di'essed, superfluous shoots 

 removed, and fresh plantations made if requii'ed. As this is 

 generally a permanent crop, the ground should be well pre- 

 pared by deep trenching and a plentiful application of manm'e. 

 Surface-stir and give air to Caidifloiccrs under hand-hghts. 

 Tilt the glasses on the side away from the wind in cold 

 weather, and remove them eutu-ely during genial showers. 

 After planting out the winter Cauliflowers there generally 

 remain a quantity of small plants ; these if pricked out m a 

 cool, shady border, on rich soil, will make a succession, and 

 fonn the connecting link between the principal winter plants 

 and the spring-so^^Ti ones. Silver-skinned Onions for pickling 

 may now be sown in the poorest soil of the garden. Work 

 it when dry, thi-ow it into high beds, the higher the better, 

 and after sowing thickly tread it hard. In picking over Winter 

 Spinach if standing rather tliick, it is as weU to remove every 

 alternate plant entirely, as it makes stirring the soil easier, 

 and induces a larger growth in those left standing. 



FRUIT GABDEN". 



See if the blossom require; protectiou. 



FLOWER GARDEN. 



We frequently find on old lawns moss predominating over 

 grass. In such cases it is best not to mow too soon in the 

 season, but to encourage the grass by the application of ma- 

 nure water, wood ashes, or any fertilising substance, previously 

 disturbing the moss by a good scarifying with a bush harrow. 

 Where it can be done, a few sheep permed on the lawn will 

 effectually cure the evil. The preparation of flower-beds 

 should not be delayed until the moment of planting. Con- 

 tinue to prune Roses, examme the stakes of tree Roses, and in 

 exposed situations let these exceed the length of the stem. 

 RoU walks, destroy weeds, and attend to artificial rockwork. In 

 planting the roots of Ranunculuses I would advise that the 

 surface of the beds be not higher than the surrounding soil. 

 A margin of slate has a very neat appearance, and is cleaner 

 and more durable than one of wood. Before planting, the beds 

 should be forked over to the depth of 2 inches, to wluch extent 

 the roots may be sunk, and when the bulbs are covered the 

 surface should be gently beaten with the back of the spade. 

 Keep Ranunculus seedlings, which in many instances are just 

 emerging, secure from cutting or drying winds. Seedling 

 Polyanthuses of last seaiiou will now be expanding fast. As 

 these are generally flowered in the open border, some pro- 

 tection may be necessaiy. If seed is not ah-eady sown, let it 

 be done directly, placing the pans or pots in gentle bottom 

 heat. Give Auriculas air whenever it is possible, bearing in 

 mind that if they are confined, the trasses of flowers which ai'e 

 now making their appear.ance will be dra'WTi. Protection must 

 be given, whenever there is the slightest appearance of frost, 

 by covering with mats, &c. Carnations, &c., required to flower 



had better be bought immethately. They are, generally speak- 

 ing, vei-y healthy, and those which will have to bear' carriage 

 may be potted rather earlier than those which are on the spot, 

 and which can be removed with the balls entii-e. 



GREENHOUSE AND C0X3EHVAT0RY. 



While the variable weather which usually characterises 

 March continues, attention must be directed that uniform and 

 moderate temperature be preserved in the conservatory. Thi 

 violent showers and boisterous gales which frequently occur at 

 this season, succeeded by intervals of mild weather and bril- 

 liant sunshine, render some management necessaiy. Fh-es 

 should be dispensed with as much as possible, and air ad- 

 mitted on all favourable occasions. On still nights the house 

 may be damped and the syi-inge used, and as the plants be- 

 come more vigorous, atmospheric moisture may be generally 

 increased. In the gi-eenhouse continue to sliift, train, and ar- 

 range plants. Soil containing a considerable portion of decom- 

 posed vegetable fibre is suitable to dwarf-growing plants. 

 Many plants intended for the flower garden may be removed 

 to frames to make room for the increasing stock propagated for 

 the same purpose. Place the plants together after they awi 

 shifted, and keep that part of the house rather close and moist 

 for a time until the plants begin to take root, after which thi-y 

 may be freely exposed. Damp the house twice or thrice on 

 clear days by spiinkhng the floor, and a syringeful of water 

 di'awn over the plants on clear mornings about twice or thrice 

 a-week will do no harm. Be careful, however, not to wet the 

 woolly-leaved Heaths, or you may induce mildew. 



STOVE. 



Look well to the tan bed in this house, and see that the 

 bottom heat is sweet and not too hot. Although there are 

 many plants which dehght in bottom heat, such, for instance, 

 as Ixoras, AUamandas, and Gloxinias, it should not be sup- 

 posed that it cannot be apphed in excess. A bottom heat of 

 8U° is amply suflicient for any stove plant, and from 70' to 80' 

 may be considered a very suitable range for the tank-bed ther- 

 mometer to take. When worms are troublesome, in addition 

 to placing the pots on slate at the time of plunging, it is ad- 

 visable to surround them with cinder ashes, which wiU be 

 found an effectual check to these intruders. Complete the 

 shifting of all specimen plants here as quickly as possible, and 

 keep a sharp look-out for insects. Let GO' be the minimum 

 temperature for the future, unless the weather be vei-y severe. 

 Keep a brisk, gi'owing, moist temperature during the d4y, and 

 shut up early. — W. Keane. 



DOINGS OP THE LAST WEEK. 



KITCHEN GARDEN. 



In diT intervals stii-red up the ground among vegetables, 

 and removed yellowish leaves from Cabbageworts, as they are 

 of no use, and taint the air of the kitchen garden. We had the 

 common and Veitch's Late Cauliflower for a long time in early 

 winter by merely protecting them with clean ht ter ; and these had 

 only just ended when .Snow's Broccoli came m. Veitch's seems 

 to be a vei7 distinct sort with close whiteheads, long narrowish 

 leaves, rather upright in growth, and therefore may be planted 

 more thickly for late use than those that have broader leaves 

 and a more spreading habit. The London Market, or Hertford- 

 shh'c Cauhflower, as gi'own by Mr. Beales, of WoodliaU, and 

 others, is an excellent variety. Veitch's Late, however, seems 

 valuable for late sui^pUes in consequence of its hardiness, as 

 we had some of it very good when Christmas was past, and 

 long after our ice-house had been filled. The protectiou we 

 gave was one or two leaves over the heads, a sprinkling of 

 clean htter over that, and rough stable-yard litter packed round 

 the stems to kejp the ground warm. 



The surface-stirring referred to among those plants which 

 the rains and lack of sunshine have kept nearly stationary, 

 acted almost Uke magic upon tlie growth. This was, no doubt, 

 assisted by a dusting that was given all over of equal portions 

 of soot, lime, charred refuse, and small charcoal dust sifted 

 from ehaiTed twigs, which, besides acting as mauurial agents, 

 helped to keep intruders off. 



The time of this surface-stu-ring is a matter of importance. 

 The ground must be somewhat dry before anyone is set on it, 

 especially when it is naturally adhesive. The reason we re- 

 commend surfacfi-stuTing for growing plants, and firm potting 

 for flowering and fruiting ones, is that free giowth, as in the 

 ease of Cabbages and CauUflowers, will much depend on the 

 amount of air thus admitted, whilst early free-blooming and 



