42 UST-ZYLMA 



speaking to the host. Some of these pictures are very- 

 old, being handed down from generation to generation, 

 and sometimes there is quite a collection of these ikona, 

 varied with brass and enamel triptychs of various ages 

 and merit. Every peasant wears a silver or bronze 

 cross. Some of these are of exquisitely delicate work- 

 manship, frequently ornamented with enamel, and 

 occasionally set with jewels. On the back of many of 

 them are elaborate Slavonic inscriptions. A wonderful 

 fertility of resource is found in the designs of these 

 crosses, which are always chaste and artistic, never florid 

 in the ornamentation or wanting in harmony of parts. 

 The great centre of all this religious art is, we were 

 informed, the monastery of Onega, on the south shore of 

 the White Sea. 



A peculiarity which we were told marked the Old 

 Believers of Ust-Zylma is a habit which the women have 

 of uttering cries, not loud but frequently repeated. This 

 habit or disease is called ''eqiiarter,'' and is brought on 

 immediately by the smell of tobacco smoke. Whether 

 the cry is voluntary, and is intended as a mark of dis- 

 approval, or as an exorcism against evil influences, or 

 whether it be a form of hysteria allied to St. Vitus's 

 dance, we were not able to ascertain. 



The officials at Ust-Zylma received us with the 

 greatest hospitality. In addition to the letters with 

 which the Governor of Archangel had provided us, it so 

 happened that Piottuch was an old friend of M. Znaminski, 

 the Preestaff, or highest military officer. He had made 

 his acquaintance some years ago, in the days of his exile 

 in Mezen, and both being fond of a day's sport, they had 

 fraternised as sportsmen ought to do. M. Sakeroff, the 

 postmaster, was the other great chasseur of Ust-Zylma, 

 and these gentlemen were kind enough to plan several 



