A RUSSO-TURKISH BATH 165 



larks, a very pretty bird. We saw a few divers, a large 

 harrier or eagle, and on the shore of the Petchora we 

 watched a flock of Siberian herring-gulls stealing fish 

 from the nets of the Samoyedes, and as we went down 

 river we came on another flock similarly employed. We 

 saw no swans on the tundra, but they were common on 

 the islands in the river ; one or two pairs were frequently 

 in sight, and still there continued to fly overhead flocks 

 of migratory ducks, always going north. All the day it 

 had been a dead calm, but for the slight southerly breeze 

 that had risen towards evening. The next morning a 

 long-unfelt pleasant breath of wind was blowing down 

 the river ; it was not enough, however, to drive back the 

 visitation of mosquitoes that was almost making us wish 

 for the blustering north gale back again. 



Despatching little Feodor, our most intelligent man, 

 by the steamer to Kuya, we bade him walk over to 

 Mekitza, then ferret out the peasant and the swan's skin, 

 and bring us home the latter. Meanwhile we spent the 

 day blowing eggs. In the evening we took a Russian 

 bath — an experience worth describing. We lay down 

 upon a platform in a wooden house ; a primitive stove 

 was in it, built of stones loosely piled one upon the other ; 

 a hole in the side of the house with a sliding door let out 

 the smoke. A wood-fire was kindled in the stove ; it 

 was allowed to go out when the stones were thoroughly 

 heated ; the steam resulting from the pouring of a glass 

 of cold water upon them soon cleared the room of all foul 

 air and smoke. As we lay stretched on the platform we 

 occasionally threw water upon the hot stones, and flogged 

 ourselves with a small broom composed of birch-twigs, 

 still clothed with leaves ; after which we rubbed ourselves 

 down with matting, sponged all over with cold water, 

 and then went into another apartment to cool ourselves, 



