PHEASANTS IN COVERT AND AVIARY 



one that is very quiet, warm, well-ventilated, free from 

 draughts, and rather dark. Each nest-box should be 18 

 inches high and 15 inches square, without a bottom, with 

 the top, back and sides of solid wood, so that in a row of 

 nest-boxes one hen will not disturb another. The sides 

 should have three holes drilled in them towards the roof, 

 and the front ought to be hinged so as to let down ; but 

 there must be a small board at the lower part of the front 

 to keep the eggs in position. 



Some hatching-boxes have wire bottoms to them, others 

 have a wire pen attached, but whatever form of hatching-box 

 be used, it must be kept scrupulously clean, periodical 

 lime whitening being a sine qua non for successful hatching. 

 Do not forget that the hatching-box frequently proves to be 

 infested with lice, and a broody hen that is thus troubled 

 cannot possibly be a steady sitter. 



Some game-rearers keep their broody hens shut up 

 during feeding-time, which in the author's opinion is a 

 mistake. They must be allowed out for food and water. 



Daily cooling of the eggs is indispensable, and if the hen 

 is allowed ten minutes' recreation, the eggs will not take the 

 slightest harm, whereas in warm weather she may be allowed 

 out for a little longer. The best food for the sitting hen is 

 barley, maize, buckwheat, and a little green bone, with plenty 

 of grit and water. The best position for a nest-box is on 

 the floor, and in making a nest, take care that the corners 

 of it are well filled, but it must not be hollowed too much 

 on the ground. 



When the hatching-boxes are in the open air they must 

 be so placed that neither excessive heat, nor rain, etc., will 

 interfere with incubation. Select a warm corner and place 

 the boxes on the level ground. Sand makes a very good 

 nest if it is properly shaped with the hands, and then lined 



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