Ramble in Eastern Iceland S^c. 367 



shores of the dark lake being intersected or dotted by nume- 

 rous silvery streams or pools^ while the entire absence of 

 woodland, and consequently apparent barrenness of its sur- 

 roundings, added much to an impressive scene. Here we had 

 our first peep at the great Snsefell (6000 feet), forty miles 

 away to the west beyond the lake. Long after dark, wet from 

 fording rivers, ravenously hungry, sore and stiff, we arrived 

 at the house of the hospitable clergyman at Vallaness, who, 

 in spite of the lateness of the hour, set before us his choicest 

 smoked, but raw, mutton and salmon, with flat-bread and 

 milk — fare not to be despised after ten hours in the saddle 

 in such an appetizing air. 



During an early stroll on the 14th along the shores of the 

 lake, whose waters, mainly derived from the northern slopes 

 of that vast glacier, the Vatna Jokull, are of a thick milky- 

 white hue, not a bird was to be found. Our route lay along 

 the lake-side, and midday found us approaching the birch- 

 clad slopes of Hallormsta'Sr, a place of much promise, since 

 trees are only to be found in one other locality in the island, 

 the scrub-clad valley of the Fnjoska. These trees, which 

 are entirely birch, were, as a rule, only of stunted growth, 

 but here and there a monarch of Icelandic forest-growth 

 raised its head, crowned with graceful golden foliage, to the 

 proud height of twenty feet ! Such a favoured locality was 

 not to be passed by, so arrangements were made to remain 

 the night under the hospitable roof of the neighbouring farm- 

 house. The afternoon was devoted to an examination of the 

 birch-covered hill-side, intersected by several ravines coursed 

 by mountain-torrents, while here and there a rocky escarpment 

 or a craggy shoulder added to its ruggedness. The birches, as 

 a rule, were little more than brush- wood, and, along with an 

 abundant carpet of bilberry, crowberry, and Dryas octopetala, 

 formed an excellent cover. Meadow-Pipits were fairly abun- 

 dant, and a Merlin was several times observed beating over 

 the hill; a Wheatear was also noted, and several Eavens 

 flying high overhead. Ornithologically we had as yet done 

 nothing, but the next bird brought to bag went far toAvards 

 making up for past disappointments, for in it we obtained 



