July 17, 1873. J 



JOURNAL OF HOBTICDIiTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



51 



three joints or eyes : remove the leaf from the lowest one, and insert the 

 cattingg up to the second eye in sandy soil in a frame; then keep moit>t, close, 

 and shaded from sun. 



Peaches is Orchard House FLAVorRLESS (Amati-tir). — We ahouhl con- 

 sider the want of flavour to be due to the trees being highly fed by rich top- 

 dressin;,-s or manure water, and not having heat suflicient to ripen them 

 thoroughly, or they may he kept moist when ripening instead of having a dry 

 atmosphere. We should preserve a dry atmosphere when ripening, and give 

 ouly saflicient water at the roots. 



Planting Strawberries (P. T. B.). — We should layer the runners at the 

 first joint in 3-inch pots, and take off the point of each runner immediately 

 the joint is layered in the pot3. Wnen the runners have filled the pots with 

 roots cut them from the parent, and at once plant 1 foot ap^rt, in rows 2 feet 

 distant from each other. After the hi'St year every alternate plant may be 

 taken out. We should trench the ground as deeply as you have soil — two 

 spits or more. After turning the top spit t j the bottom of the trench give a 

 good dressing of manure, and throw the bottom spit upon it. We should 

 pive, after trenching, a dressing of rotten manure and point it in with a fork. 

 The manure you mention will be suitable. Give as much as you can afford. 

 It is useless taking off runners of plants that have not fruited. The first 

 joint or ronner gives the best plants. Plant them as soon as you con seoure 

 them well rooted, the earlier the better. 



Melons DAMPiN(>-oFF{Sco(i<t). — The cause of the Melon plants daraping-off 

 at the collar is the leaves there overshadowing it and keeping it from receiving a 

 due amount of air. The young shoots and leaves that cluster over the collai- 

 sboold be removed, so as to expose it to light and air. In dull and moist 

 weather a little air at night is necessary to keep the moisture condensed 

 during (he night from being deposited on the leaves and stems. The collai* 

 should not be wetted or watered. Keep the laterals duly stopped to prevent 

 the principal leaves from being crowded or overshadowed. Dust with quick- 

 lime the stems of those affected by canker. See that the lights are drip- 

 proof. 



Plant House (W. Savite). — We should decidedly prefer a half-span roof 

 for the plant house to be built against a wall that is 5 feet 9 inches high. As 

 yoQ will not attempt to grow plants of a large size in such a structure, the 

 roof need only be high enough for a tfiU person to pass under it. Let all the 

 woodwork be as light as is consistent with strength. Do not let the sills 

 toQch the soil, but keep them a little above the surface by means of a few 

 courses of brickwork, which will add very materially to the strength and 

 durability of the building. For ventilation make an opening of 10 inches 

 wide all along the south side or front of the ridge, lixiug glazed or wooden 

 ventilators by hicges to the ridge-bar, each ventilator to be opened or closed 

 by an iron catch or handle perforated with holes, so as to enable you to regu- 

 late the admission of air to a nicety. Three small sliding wooden shutters 

 fixed in the brickwork under the front sill will complete the ventilation, and 

 answer as well as the most costly apparatus. The staying should be 2 feet 

 wide in front, then should come a 3-feet walk, and between it and the back 

 wail there should be a stage in three tiers, the lowest 2 feet from the ground. 

 Continue the two lower tiers of the back stage round to the back wall at each 

 end opposite the doors. With the exception of the path the whole of the 

 space will thas be utilised for the plant?. You are in error in supposing it is 

 necessary to place plants near the glass to prevent the growth becoming 

 drawn-np and attenuated. In a light and thoroughly ventilated house, with 

 ordinary care, the plants might be grown to perfection upon the floor, but the 

 stage is, of coarse, more convenient, and the plants appear to better advantage 

 Upon it. Use four rows of 4-inch piping along the entire length of the front 

 of the house, placing them under the front shelf. Connect the flow and 

 return pipes with the boiler by 2-inch pipes, which is the smallest sizw that 

 ought ever to be used for the purpose. We do not think a glass coping along 

 the wall from the plant house to the vinery would improve the appearance of 

 the houseg. and we think it bad practice to plant a fruit tree or anything hut 

 Vines in a Vine border. 



Mildew on Vines (Elrugf).— This disease is prevalent in the present 

 year. We had it in a Rose house, and dusted the Roses at least six times 

 with sulphur before we eradicated it. A damp atmosphere with insuflicient 

 ventilation causes mildew, while a rather dry atmosphere with a current of air 

 in the house is tinfavuurable to the development of this parasite. Sulphur is 

 the only cure for it that we know. It will be desirable to paint the stems of 

 your Vines, after they are pruned, with the following mixture: — Dissolve 

 £ ozs. of soft soap in a quart of water, add flowers of sulphxir to make it of the 

 consistency of thin paint, then add a little tobacco water; with this paint the 

 Vines, working it well into all crevices with a brush. 



McsuRoous GBri;-EATEN (/Jocfc&car?!).— The grub is apt to assail Mush- 

 rooms in houses in aummer, from being too close and hot. Sweep the beds 

 clean ovet, water especially at the back and front, syringe the walls and path- 

 way, give a little air, not a keen draught, and put no covering on the bed. A 

 shady place out of doors, or a cool cellar, is the best for Mushrooms in 

 summer. 



Grapes Diseased (W. f.}.— They are severely attacked by the gangrene, 

 colled by gardeners " the spot." Cat away every berry attacked, and water 

 the roots freely twice o-wcek, once out of the twice being with weak liquid 

 manure, and the chill taken off all the water applied. The roots do not 

 supply sap snfBcient. 



Cold Pit Constuuction {A. P., Ch€$ter).—Oais are sunk in the ground 

 2 feet, bat the site is well drained. The floor is cemented, but ashes will do. 

 The front wall is raised G inches above ground, or 2 feet 6 inches high, and the 

 back wall 4 feet. The walls are 4^ inches thick, the wall plates the width of 

 the walls, and bevelled to sTiit the pitch. The pit is 7 feet wide, which width 

 weadnse. Our Ughts are 3 feet 6 inches wide, and had we another to make wo 

 ■bould have them 3 feet. Wide lights are very unwioldly. The best of the 

 aitca you describe would be the S.S.W. ; let the front face to that point. The 

 lights should be 2 inches thick, and glazed with 2l-oz. glass. 



Sthikino Rose Cuttings (fioi^).— Though you have means of supplying 

 bottom heat, we presume you have a frame or hand-light or two. Toko 

 catlings of the kinds you wish to propagate as soon as the flrst crop of 

 flowers is nhed. Tlio cuttings should be of the wood of the current year, 

 and are best with three eyes or buds. Cut the shoots below the lowest bud 

 or eye, and remove the leaf which is theie, but let the others remain. Insert 

 each cutting in a .'^inch pot filled with two ports hght loom, one part leaf 

 soil, and one part sand. Set the pots on ashes in a cold frame or under a 

 hand-light ; keep the cuttings close and shaded from sun, and sprinkle lightly 

 overhead with water every morning, replacing the light or lights immediately. 

 In a month or six weeks they will be well rooted, and air should then ho ad- 

 mitted, but gradually at lirst. Shift the phints into 5-inch pots in September, 



and during the winter keep them plunged in ashes in a cold frame, with air 

 in mild weather, but protect from severe frost. Shift the plants into 6-inch 

 pota in April, and plunge them out of doors iu a sheltered position, watering 

 as required, and frequently giving water overhead. In September thev may 

 be placed in 8-inch pots, and in the following yeai- they will flower if primed in 

 January and then introduced into the greenhouse. 



Herbaceous Calceolarias and Cinerarias Dving-off (Doufilas). — We 

 do not see in what way your treatment differs from ours, only we think you 

 allow the plants to become pot-bound. At no stage is this good. We should 

 shift them into larger pots more frequently, and under this treatment they 

 will requhe to be in 8 or 9-inch pots in February or March. Pinch out the 

 point in the centre at the first pair of good-sized leaves. They require to be 

 kept moist, and should be set on a cool bottom where they will be only just 

 safe from frost, and have au abundance of air whenever the weather is mild. 

 The dying-off at the collar probably arises from potting them too low. Pot 

 so that the collar or neck of the plant may be a little raised in the centre of 

 the pots, which will cause the water to drain from, not to it. Never pour the 

 water directly on the stem or neck of the plant. In other respects we cannot 

 improve on your treatment. 



Soil for Pansies — Potting (P. C. S.). — The best soil for the Pansy is 

 three parts loam from rotted turves not less than sis months old, turned over 

 frequently, and sprinkled with soot in the turning to drive away wireworm. 

 The loam should be of a medium texture — that U, neither heavy nor Ught. 

 To this add one part leaf soil, half a part of thoroughly rotteu manure, and 

 half a part in equal proportions of sand and charcoal not larger than a hazel 

 nut, the whole well mixed. For flowering in pots they should be potted at 

 the end of September in 4-incti pots, well drained, and placed in a frame near 

 the glass. Aii' should be admitted freely in mild weather, but keep close atad 

 covered with mats in severe frosts. Shift in February into 6 or 8-inch pota 

 for blooming, continuing to keep them near the glass, but with abundance of 

 air in mild weather. 



Red Spider on Vines (A Subscriber). — The chief cause of red spider is 

 a deficiency of moisture at the roots or in the atmosphere. We should dress 

 the border with guano, making it quite yellow all over, and wash-in the guano 

 by watering. The floor of the house should be kept damp by sprinkling 

 with water twice or thrice a day. If the Grapes have not begun to change 

 colour for ripening, we should syringe them twice a-day with clear rain water 

 until they change colour. The force of the water should be directed against 

 the under side of the leaves. Pearson's " Vine Culture under Glass" will suit 

 you. It may be had from our office for thirteen penny postage stamps. 



Thrips on Vines (J. E.). — We think that the insects on your Vines are 

 thrips, which may be destroyed by tumigation with tobacco. Choose a calm 

 evening, shut the house up closely, and after damping the floor, but having 

 the foUage of the Vines dry, fill the house with tobacco smoke so densely that 

 you cannot see the Vines from the outside ; then remove the fumit^ating 

 apparatus. In fumigating take care to deliver the smoke cool, not allowing 

 the tobacco or tobacco paper to blaze. Repeat the fumigation on the next 

 night but one, and continue to do so as long as you find a thrips alive. These 

 insects are rather difficult to destroy when they obtain a hold, for though one 

 or two fumigations may destroy all those in existence, other broods succeed 

 them from theii" eggs ; therefore keep a sharp look-out, and fumigate the 

 house whenever a thrips is seen. 



Name of Fruit (J. Grt'cn).—Yonr Strawberry is Trollope's Victoria. 



Names of Plants (W.). — The Orchid sent two or three days ago is Odonto- 

 glosBum pulchellum. (G. B. C).— The plant is Thalictrum minus, Leaser 

 Rue-weed. We cannot name Roses or other florists' flowers. They are in 

 legions. (H. P. ilf.).— The same reply must bt- to you with this addition, we 

 have repeatedly announced that otdy sis specimens must be sent at a time, 

 and you have sent nearly forty. (E. J. £.).— Fumariaparviflora, small-flowered 

 Fumitory. {F. I). H.). — Cynoglossum officina e. (O. Orpet). — Nertera de- 

 pressa; is quite hardy. {T. Perry).— 1, Veronica Teucrium ; 2, V. apicata; 

 3, Erigeron specioBum ; 4, Epilobium angastifolium. {W. D.).— 2, Adiantum 

 tenerum ; 3, Nephrodium setigeram ; 4, Not in fruit ; 5, Pellaa hastata. 



POULTRY, BEE, AND PIGEON OHKONIOLE. 



DOGS IN GENERAL, 



AND A VISIT TO THE HOME FOR LOST DOGS.— No. 2. 

 *' Let Hercules himself do what he may, 

 The cat will mew, the dog will have his day." 



Shakitpe&rc. 



I SUPPOSE that in the above lines Shakspeare wished to show, 

 what is indeed most true, that let the great of the earth do 

 whatever they choose— this king reign, that king be deposed, 

 yet the little ones of the earth will in no wise be affected by 

 them. They will go on just the same ; they will have their life, 

 their loves, their hates, their ways, and their whims under what- 

 ever king, or no king at all. Carry this reasoning to the lower 

 animals, and how very little, indeed, is the power of the great. 

 Look at the animal world, and the bird world ; the lamb will 

 frisk, the bird will sing just the same, however the land and 

 timber may change owners. Let the dog only have a good 

 master, and what cares he for king or kaiser ? He will have his 

 own enjoyments in his own little world. So, therefore, 

 " Let Hercules himself do what ho may, 

 The cat will mew, the dog will ha»c his day." 



In passing, let me note how one man of genius inspire.-) 

 another. The latter half of the last line, from the greatest work, 

 Hamlet, of the greatest poet of all time, found an echo in the 

 heart of Charles Kingsley, who adapts it to another and higher 

 purpose in his sweet and antique-sounding song beginning 



" 'mien all the world was young, lad," 

 for, speaking of the hopes of youth and the enthusiasm of youth, 



when „ 



" Every goose is a swan, and every lass a quoon, 



