November 6, 1S73. ] 



JOIIRNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 



859 



HoRTicuLTURAi. BUILDINGS (Zcta). — The advantages of the houses to which 

 you allude are, that bein^ of iroa they are very durable and afford good faci- 

 lities for ventilation; but we are of your opinion, and prefer the ordinary 

 method of construction; the house lli^ht, but sufliciemly strong to insure 

 stability, and well ventilated. 



Bush and Pyramid Fruit Trees (S.).— Experience is opposed to your 

 vion-s. We repeat that we can only insert the results of practice on this 

 subject. 



Tree Leaves (Capt. Preston). — The leaves sent are not those of a Maple. 

 bat of an Oak. They appear to be those of Quercus coccinea or Q." rubra. If 

 they die-off a bright scarlet they are the former, hut if a dull crimson they 

 are the latter. 



Vallota purpurea after Flo'^\-ering (Tohtham). — Keep them in a 

 light airy position, aod repot now or between now and February, giving 

 them a pot no more than l\ or 2 inches larger, providing giod drainage, and 

 removing the soil that comes away freely from amongst the roots, using a 

 compost three parts tibrous loam, and one part leaf soil or old dry cow dun?, 

 and a sixth of sharp sand. In potting do not remove the offsets, but let all 

 grow together. They do not Interfere with the larger bulb.-i, and m time they 

 will flower. If you wish for more plants, then, of course, you wLU remove the 

 offsets, and put them singly in small pots. 



Lime Water {Mirfiehl). — The proportion of lime to water to be employed 

 for destroying worms, is 1 lb. fresh lime to three piillon^ of water, thoroughly 

 miied in a hogshead. Let the mixture stand forty-eight hours, and thuu 

 water with the clear liquid, giving a thorough soaking in the evening, 

 especially in moist weather. It will bring the worms to the surface, and they 

 may be cleared off with a broom. 



WiJCFERiNo Show Pansies (7(i<'m}.— They will winter Rafely in an ordinary 

 frame in a sheltered, dry situation. If in pots these should be plunged to 

 the rim in ashes. Keep only moist, admitting air fieely, but shielding from 

 rainH, tilting the lights in wet but mild weather. Protect with mats in 

 severe periods. 



Spik.ea japonica in Frame {Idem). — It will succeed in a frame. It is a 

 hardy herbaceous plant, but in a frame it will flower earlier than out-doora. 

 To have it in flower early it requires to be gently forced. 



Camellia Leaves Browned (J Subjcnh-r).— The leaves have the npper 

 surface or epidermis destroyed by the attack of an Acarus or red spider, of 

 which there were numerous traces, as well as eggs clustered on the under 

 side close to the edges. Thoroughly sponge the leaves on their under as well 

 as upper surface, al.-^o the stems, with a solution of soft soap, 4ozs. to a 

 gallon of water, using it at a temperature of 10(P to 120 . 



Vine Bobder Making — Vines for Forcing (Amateur). — We should 

 have liked your border arrangements better had it been partly within and 

 partly outside the house, the front wall being on arches so as to allow of the 

 roots going outside, planting the Vines inside the house. We should not have 

 le*<s than 9 inches of drainage, and over that a layer of turf; 2 feet G inchen 

 of border formed of turf and old mortar will answer with the half ton of 

 boni«, the whole thoroughly mixed. Plant the Vines in front of the house, 

 at t> feet apart, and when they reach the roof stop them, and securing two 

 shoots take one to thericht and the other to the left, and when they have grown 

 ly inches in that direction take them up the roof, which will cause the rods to 

 be 3 feet apart, and with two rods, each Vine will have 18 feet of rafter. We 

 should have all the pipes in front, and clear of the Vines. For early forcing 

 we recommend Black Hamburgh, and Backland Sweetwater, 



Vinery and Cucumber House (Stella). — The vinery will need to be kept 

 cool. If you have plants yon should only give fir j heat to exclude frost. The 

 bedding-ont and other plants would have been better in the vinery than the 

 Cucumber house, which we presume you will employ so as to have Cucumbers 

 in spring and through the summer. The Vines will need to be pruned when 

 the leaves have faUen, and ought to be cut back to within three eyes each of 

 the bottom of the rafter, and you ought not to take more than two bunches 

 from each Vine next season. We should not apply fire heat before March, if 

 wo had no plants to protect from frost. We cannot advise you as to what 

 would be best to grow. Fruit can always be disposed of, and flowers, ospeci- 

 afly in winter, meet a ready sale, but nothing is gained by attempting too 

 much. To tell you how to treat the Vines would be to rewrite the "Vino 

 Manual," and the Cucumber is treated of in " In-door Gardening." 



Grapes Shanked (Q. W.). — The Grapes, as yon sacpected, are what 

 gardeners term "shanked." The cause of the dying of the stalks is the de- 

 ficient supply of sap, owing to the roots being outside the house. If the sur- 

 face of the border over the roots is covered with fermenting dung, and a tar- 

 paulin over this to protect from excessive wei. and cold, the shanking would 

 probably proceed nu further. Ketain the old Vines. Muscat of Alexandria 

 requires a higher temperature than you employ. 



Vineries, Fernerv, and Forcing Pit Heating — Vines for Vineries 

 (IL 0. O.). — The aspect, south-west, will answer. The mode of heating you 

 show in the plan will not do. In the early vinerj' you will need four rows of 

 pipes — two flows with their returns, and for the f^ucceesion vinery you will 

 require two rows— a flow and return, and they should bo so arranged that 

 each honse can be heated independently of the other — i.e., either separately 

 or together. Wo should have the flow main for the early vinery as you show 

 it, and take a branch from it .for the later vinerj- at the hack of the fernery, 

 and through the back wall of tlie viner}' as soon as that house is reached, 

 thence across the end and along the front, and back again to the boiler. The 

 pipe may continue round the fernery as you show it, but we should take a 

 branch (rnm the pipe going to the late vinery immediately after entering the 

 fernery, then acrous the end, up the Hide, across the other end, and down the 

 other side, joining it to the return pipe from the late vinery. In this case you 

 will only need a valvo for the flow pipes of the fernery and vinery. The 

 forcing hout«o will need two pipes, as you show, for bottom heat for the bed ; 

 but two pipes will not afford sufficient top heat. You ought to have four 

 rowH, and employ itio .'l-inch pipes for bottom heat for the beds and for top 

 heat to the forcing houne. The other houses we should supply with 4-inch 

 flow and return pipes. There should be valves on tho flow pipes, so that 

 each house may 1k> heated separately or along with others. The pits, wo 

 presume, are not to he heat«d. If you heat them, a flow and return :l-inch 

 pipe woTild do well. Tho V>rdeT for the Vines wo should make partly within 

 and partly outside tho house, planting in each case innldo tho hou-^e. Tho 

 pipes for heating should be 2 feet 6 inches from tho front wall, and 1 foot 

 from the wall plant tho Vines :{ feet apart, tho end ones IS inches from tho 

 endtf. This will give you five Vinc^ for each house. For the early house wo 

 advise three Black Hamburghs, one Buckland Sweetwater, and one Wliito 

 FroDtignan. For tbo late house two Muscat of Alexandria, one Madrcsficld 



Court Muscat, one Mrs. Pince, and one Lady Downe's ; or, if you wish for ft 

 late-hanging white kind, Trebbiano may be substituted for ono of tho Muscat; 

 of Alexandrias. Train tho canes up the rafters, not lougtbwiso of the houses, 



Zvgopetalum intermedidm--(H. 2*. i^.).— The abnormal flower of the 

 Zy^'opotalum is very peculiar, but we have seen similar forms befora Ln fact 

 this genus is very liable to malformations. 



Celery the Second Year (Jo/t/i H. B.).— The seedlings from sfjed sown 

 in spring wilt not answer for next year's planting, as the plants will run to 

 seed. They are of no use. Xou must raise fresh plants by sowing in Feb- 

 ruai'y or March. 



Fruit Trees for Sussex {Lady C. T.).— Winter dessert Pears for espaliers 

 — DoyenUL- du Cornice, Durandeau, Thompson's, Fondante do Malinf i, Forelle, 

 Winter Nelis, Beurri- Sterckmans, and Bergamotto Esperen. W'rAer dessert 

 Apples for espaliers— Cox's Orange Pippin, Adams' Pearmain, Cockle Pippin, 

 Golden Reinette, Golden Russett, Blenheim Pippin, Manning'' jn's Pearmain, 

 and Nonpareil. 



Myrtles Cutting and Shifting (C. M. M.).— We should not advise cut- 

 ting back until February or March, and then prune-in so as to lay the foun- 

 dation of well-formed beads. Shifting ought not to he done until a mouth 

 or six weeks after the plants have been cut back. If you had had them in a 

 heated house we should have preferred to have shifted now and cut back ia 

 spring, keeping the plants rather dry at the roots until they had broken, but 

 sprinkled overhead twice daily. After breaking, encourage growth by copious, 

 supplies of water and a moist atmosphere ; but as the plants are in a cool 

 house we fear they would not root much during the winter, if at all, and. 

 therefore do not advise shifting until spring. 



Planting Lilies of the Valley (A. B. C.).— The present is the proper 

 time to move these plants. They like rich, light, loamy soil enriched with 

 leaf soil or thoroughly rotted manure. An east, or north-east, or north-west; 

 aspect is for them preferable to a south-west aspect. Plant in rows a foob 

 apart, and the plants U inches apart in the r.iws, planting them in clumps of 

 three to half a dozen crowns each. They should be planted about 2 inches 

 deep, the crowns just below the surface, and after planting be mulched about 

 three-quarters of an inch thick with partially decayed leaves. Water freely 

 in dry weather after May. 



EucHARis AMAZONicA Treatment {A Con,<<tant Sii&sr; tbcr).— It hlooms- 

 at various times, but principally in summer. Grow it in the stove in a Ught 

 airy position, encouraging growth for about three months by keeping th& 

 plant moist, and then keep it dry for a period quite as long, not, however, 

 allowing the leaves to flag ; and by this plan you may bloom the plant twice, 

 if not of tener, in a season. Moderate pot-room only is required, and a compost 

 of turfy loam three parts, and one part leaf soil, and a like proportion of sandy 

 peat, with a free admixture of silver sand. Good drainage is very essential. 



Insects (H. B. W.). — Your Cyclamens have been attacked at the roots by 

 the irrepressible grubs of the Otiorhynchus vastator. Nothing will eradicate 

 tlem besides careful examination «tf the plants aud repotting them if not too 

 far eaten. The grubs must be looked sharply after, as they burrow deep into 

 the bulbs, and must be carefully picked out aud destroyed. — I. 0. W. 



Names of Fruits (Rev. C. Badh<im).—P<.-arx—^o. 1, Beurrc Langelier; 

 .S, lied Doyenne; 4, Dunmore. Apples—l, Cobhara; 5 and 6, Lucombe's 

 Seedling. {M. A. M.).—l aod 4, Golden Winter Pearmain; 2, Dutch Mig- 

 nonno; 3, Cox's Pomona; 5, Dumelow's Seedling. (E. S. //.).— 26, Pearson's 

 Plate: 16, Rose de Chine ; 34, Russet Pearmain ; 5, Scarlet Pearmain, 38, Ked- 

 dleston Pippin. (Hogg d- Wood].—^ and 10, Melrose; 9, Autumn Pearmain; 

 5, Winter Codlin ; II, Yorkshire Greening; 4, Federal Pearmain; 00, ReinettO' 

 du Canada; I, Mere de Menage; 0, Trumpington; 000, Golden Winter Pear- 

 main ; 8, Leadmgtou. (L.).— March Bergamot. " Hogg's Fruit Manual." 



POULTEY, BEE, AlID PIGEON OHIONIOLE. 



POULTRY HAUNTS.— No. 1. 



Mr. E. B. 'Wood's, Woodland Hall, Uttoxeteb. 



" I sDPPosE you never read the other part of the Journal," 

 quoth my good frieud, the Rev. J. Handley, at the Tauutou 

 Flower Show. "Don't I, though?" was my reBponse ; " anff 

 what fowls do you go in for?" " Houdans." " So do I." And 

 forthwith we were at it — a regular mill ; and the different strains, 

 the various breeders, the ins and outs of poultry shows, aud the 

 various items that interest the initiated, were merrily discussed 

 across the hospitable board provided by the Committee. 



It was in the month following that, being on my way home 

 from the great Manchester Exhibition, it occurred to mo that, 

 as I had for many years been in the habit of noting in the pages 

 of our Journal siich places as struck me in their horticultural 

 aspect, and as I had received many an intimation that nuch 

 notices were profitable to many, so t might perhaps say some- 

 thing to poultry-fanciers in the same gossippiug way that might, 

 interest them. When I see anyone taking a prominent posi- 

 tion in flowers, poultry, or anything else, I like first of all to 

 know what the man is like, and then I like to know his sur- 

 roundings; and the same feeling that would induce me to look 

 with interest on the garden whence some of our greatest achieve- 

 ments have come, makes me desire to see the places whence 

 some of those wonderful birds have come which seem by right 

 to occupy a foremost place in the numerous contUcta which now 

 are almost universal. 



It so happeued, then, that Uttoxeter lay not much out of my 

 way on my return ; and as Mr. Wood has taken such a leading 

 place for some years as an exhibitor of French fowls, and had 

 supplied birds for my own little yard, I halted on my way home 

 at the riuiet country town which is so evidently connected with 

 old Kom.an times, and on tho following morning made my way 

 to the pleasantly situated house where Mr. Wood carries on hia 

 cultures. After a pleasant walk across the fields of about a mile 



