December 11, 1878] 



JOURNAL OP HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GAEDENEB, 



465 



laid out straight after it has been examined, and packed firmly 

 and evenly in the soil. Do not plant deeply, but select or 

 make a slight elevation similar to the diagram, rather than a 

 low damp position, covering the roots with about G inches of 

 soil. Mulching, securing firmly with wire stays, and watering 

 if required, should be done with the planting. In a word, 

 carefully study and attend to the requirements of a tree and 

 it will grow ; neglect those requirements, and it will probably 

 fail to do so. — Edwakd Lockhdrst. 



POLYANTHUSES. 



We have much to thank " Philanthos " for in his recent 

 papers on some grotesque and quaintly-named forms of the 

 Polyanthus, and I trust he will consider it a redeeming point 

 "in a " florist " of the very straitest sort, that such an one can 

 appreciate these strange shapes and thoroughly enter into their 

 peculiar beauties. I should fe<!l much indebted to " Phil- 

 ANTHOS," if he would kindly suggest any way in which I could 

 get some of these Polyanthuses with the curious calyx. It 

 would hardly be worth while expecting them from seed saved 

 "from parents of the more normal forms, although I have occa- 

 sionally had seedlings from the florists' varieties of Auricula 

 which have come " Pantaloon " and " Hose-in-Hose." The 

 " Galligaskins" I have never met with, but I think it the most 

 de'ig-itiul of all these curious forms, and likely to sport from 

 seed to still further eccentricity. 



A correspondent, " G. S.," calls attention to what he has 

 cause to think a fact — viz., that with respect to thrum-eyed 

 Polyanthus seedlings, some when planted in rich soil have 

 become pin-eyed. I do not write to dispute what " G. S." and 

 an observer in Queen Anne's time have both remarked, but I 

 should greatly like to learn how far this strange modification 

 has been noticed. For myself, I have only to say that I have 

 been acquainted with the florists' Polyanthus nearly all my 

 life, and I grow it now. Probably it is cultivated by its growers 

 in as rich soil as may be used, yet I never saw a standard 

 Polyanthus sport from "brevistyla" to " longistyla." I have 

 never heard or known of it as a thing to fear, that some 

 mistreatment might turn our thrum-eyes into pin-eyes. We 

 feel quite sure of the steadfastness of our florists' flowers in 

 ihis respect, both in the Polyanthus and its more radiant 

 sister the Auricula. But it may be that commoner strains 

 are affected by a variation from which establiihed varieties of 

 high refinement are free. Perhaps " G. S." would kindly tell 

 us in what strains he has observed this change. I might just 

 remark by the way, that strict identity of a seedling Poly- 

 anthus is not for a time so easily secured as that of an old 

 ■variety. It is just possible when seedlings are transplanted 

 that some tiny plant, or yet inactive seed of this irregularly 

 germinating family, may unawares be taken to grow as one 

 ■with a selected seedling, if there be soil of the seed-bed 

 about it. 



" G. S." complains of the mischief done to his Polyanthuses 

 by slugs and birds. Against the slugs, I think a hand-en- 

 counter by lantern light, on a moist and balmy night, is the 

 best method of attack. If the enemy is very numerous at 

 first, and the plants not in bloom, fine quicklime from a large 

 sort of pepper-castor may be dusted over the foUage, and a 

 good syringing in the dew of the morning wUl wash it off. 

 Excursions into the garden at night are wondrously effective 

 and very interesting. You learn who are your enemies, and 

 may despatch, besides the slugs, large worms, woodlice, 

 beetles that leave a posterity of insidious grubs, the ever- 

 abominable earwig, and caterpillars. If that arch pest the 

 wireworm would but show at night, how scarce we might make 

 him ! Toads, if their services can bo secured by an enclosed 

 garden like mine, are among our best of friends. I fear that 

 tirds can be kept from flowers only as from fruit, by some 

 bounds which they cannot pass, and that wo must sometimes 

 he content to grow choice flowers that have tasty parts for 

 birds, with accompaniments for protection. My Polyanthuses 

 are safe because bloomed in pots sank in ashes in cold frames, 

 and I do not know what to recommend to preserve these flowers 

 from the birds, except some safeguard of net or glass. — F. D. 

 HoBNEB, Kirkby MaUeard, Itipon. 



I WTij, reply to the anomaly stated by your correspondent 

 " O. 8." respecting his seedling Polyanthus. He says that 

 a thrum-eyed flower had the next season become pin-eyed. 

 This is simply impossible. In a thrum-eye the anthers are 

 fixed in the uoek of the tube, forming the eye, and thi^ is one of 



the grand features of the flower. In a pin-eye the anthers ara 

 at the bottom of the tube, with the pin-eye or stigma rising to 

 the top. I am aware of the fact that in some varieties really 

 thrum-eyed, through what 1 conceive to be either some defect 

 in culture or some effect of atmospheric influence, the tube of 

 the flower does not advance in length in proportion to the 

 growth of the style in its early stages ; hence the stigma 

 protrudes through the thrum or anthers until a more advanced 

 state of the bloom, when it assumes its true character. Some 

 varieties are so short in the style that without a surgical 

 operation it is difficult to obtain access to them for the pur- 

 pose of fertilising. 



The Pantaloons and Galligaskins of another correspondent 

 are curious monstrosities, and not at all in accordance with 

 the true character of the flower, which in the artistic style of 

 its markings is unapproached by any other of Flora's gems. 



I have often wondered why my kind friend "D.," of Deal, does 

 not take the Polyanthus under his especial patronage, feeling 

 assured it would not disgrace the lovely Auricula, or decrease 

 the interest of the spring exhibitions. — Deka, Market Rasen. 



ROLLER BLINDS TO INCREASE WARMTH. 



My vinery is span-roofed, 90 feet by 16, in three divisions, 

 with two 4-iuch pipes on each side near the glass, and a good 

 saddle boiler. I presume from the great surface of glass my 

 gardener cannot have ripe Grapes before August, and I wish to 

 have them by the end of June. I think of having outside 

 roller blinds to let down at night, and perh ips only roU-up 

 one of them by day in cold weather. What difference in the 

 inside temperature would such blinds probably cause? 



I begin forcing March 1st. To have ripe Grapes by July 1st, 

 when should I Ught fires? My Vine roots are all inside, and 

 the rods yearly are long and strong. — J. Mackenzie, Inverness, 



[We have some misgivings as to the roller blinds you men- 

 tion answering your purpose, although such a covering is an 

 excellent help to keep out frost from a houseful of plants. 

 Where the glazing of a house is faulty, as where there are 

 very small squares, perhaps not well fitted to each other, the 

 innumerable openings in the roof for the egress of heated air 

 are attended with a great sacrifice of fire heat, and in that 

 case waterproof canvas blinds will be of great service. In all 

 cases, however, let them be drawn-up in the daytime if there 

 be any sun; and presuming that your houso faces south, wa 

 would recommend that as much sun heat be shut-in as pos- 

 sible. We would, therefore, shut-up the house so early that 

 the temperature might rise to 80°, if it would, early in spring, 

 although it might recede during the night to 4.5' in the morn- 

 ing. Heat, however, is both easier obtained from the sun, 

 and is easier kept when the glazing is in good close con- 

 dition. When such is the case the blinds may be dispensed 

 with, as they are costly, liable to mishap from high winds, 

 and are not durable. There can be no question but they 

 will keep out a great degree of cold, but whether it is prudent 

 to apply them or add more piping is a question that ought to 

 be taken into consideration. We should certainly prefer the 

 latter plan, as there is less likelihood of a break-down with 

 inside heating than with outside covering. It would be well 

 to inquire if your present boiler is capable of heating the 

 additional piping that ought to be given, say as much more 

 as you have, which wUl bo four instead of two pipes, and in 

 doing so we would not advise so much piping to be attached 

 to a boiler of a particular size as it is represented that 

 boiler will heat ; rather have a boiler a sixe larger, for we do 

 not think anything is gained by working a boiler or pipes 

 up to what is said to bo their powers of accomplishing ; rather 

 let both be worked easily, less coals will then do, and that is 

 a consideration in these days. Most likely you will find if the 

 quantity of piping be doubled that an additional 5° or more of 

 tempsraturo will be attained, with a suitable boiler, without 

 using more fuel than row. 



It will certainly be advisable to begin firing before March 1st. 

 Begin by degrees ; say shut the house up in the last week in 

 January, and give fire on cold nights only. If your house 

 contains nothing but the Vines, we would continue the fire in 

 the daytime, and let the temperature sink at night even to 

 3'y, if the weather bo very severe, until some move bo made in 

 the Vines, when, of course, more warmth must be maintained 

 at night. Where it is advisable to economise fuel — and under 

 present circumstances everyone is anxious to do so — day forcing 

 is cheaper than night, and the Vine allows of this, while the 

 Cucumber will not. It is therefore better to encourage a high 



