iMah. 



1891. J 



AND OOLOGIST. 



41 



southerly wiiifl was blowing, and was assisted 

 by two squalls which overtook us, kickiiin; up 

 a big sea, which tossed the great steamer 

 about like a ball. 



During the afternoon a rainbow spanued 

 the eastern sky, jnst above the horizon, hiok- 

 ing very much like an immense ship on fire. 

 Thursday, the 10th, broke out a cloudy day, 

 with showers at short intervals and a very 

 heavy sea, which completely upset the ma- 

 jority of the passengers, but I am feeling 

 like a brick. Only one lady has come on deck 

 since we started, and I doubt if she goes 

 below at all, for she is on deck when 1 come 

 out, and still there when I turn in. 



The weather is suggestive of Greenland and 

 decidedly nasty. 



The wind is blowing from the northwest, 

 and we liad been heading northeast, until we 

 struck the baidcs, took soundings and changed 

 our coursi! to due east. We here sighted 

 three fishing boats, which were having a ter- 

 rible time in the heavy sea. 



When I came on deck, on the morning of 

 the nth, I for the first time saw the shores 

 of Newfoundland, along which we coast. 



The only life which has so far made its 

 appearance is a few Petrels, a gull, and a 

 school of porpoises, which go tumbling and 

 leaping over the waves. 



The shores are truly a desolate sight, for 

 they are all rocks, and with not a tree in sight. 

 It is a most awe-inspiring sight, for tlie.^e high 

 and rocky cliffs stretch along for miles, with 

 only a few scattered homes and fisliing dories 

 to break the monotony. 



During the forenoon we passed three ice- 

 bergs, wonderful masses of whiteness, looking 

 like mountains of silver fioating on tlie bosom 

 of the dark blue sea. 



At 2 P.M. we entered the harbor of St. .lolins, 

 which lies almost completely surrounded and 

 embosomed in the mass of barren mountains 

 upon which the rilltt(/e. of St. Johns is built, 

 two forming the mouth of the harbor, which 

 is so narrow that two vessels would have 

 trouble in entering abreast. 



Here, as at Halifax, I had no trouble in 

 passing the customs officers, and they were 

 passed without comment, but one poor old 

 codger tipped the inspector a V, which prob- 

 ably awiikened his suspicions, for he com- 

 pelled the man to unpack everything. 



I do not thiiik that old fellow will ever 

 waste another V on a customs official.* 



* [Shades of ihe Immortals, was there ever such a 

 fact known to science before — a gr)vonnnent employee 



My room at the Atlantic House proved large 

 and comfortable, much more so than I had 

 been led to expect. Here I met some gen- 

 tlemen, among others a Mr. Robinson, who 

 gave me much information concerning the 

 country, and told me of a Mr. Cahoon (well 

 known to the readers of the O. & O.), who 

 was making extensive explorations in the 

 vicinity of Placentia. I determined at once 

 to make his acquaintance if possible, and .set 

 about finding him as soon as possible. 



Mr. O'Brien, of Boston, jilso gave me many 

 points, and introduced me to a number of 

 people who knew the country. 



I am very glad to be able to publicly extend 

 my thanks to these gentlemen, who so kindly 

 assisted me. The next day, after getting 

 some necessaries, not the least being to estab- 

 lish my credit at the bank, I took the train 

 across the country toward Placentia, and such 

 a country it was never my fortune to be- 

 hold before, and I never expect to again — 

 cliffs piled upon cliffs, rocks piled ujion rocks, 

 rugged mountains and rocks everywhere, and 

 not much else. The land is not cultivated, 

 except in a few places, and could not be, for 

 there is nothing for vegetation to grow upon. 



Thus we went on, barely moving up hill, 

 and going down at lightning .speed, until we 

 struck a grade, and the cars would clash 

 together and nearly throw us into the next 

 seat, and the next thing we knew our necks 

 would nearly be snajijied over the back of 

 our own seat. 



The brakeman was a queer specimen of hu- 

 manity, in a fore and aft hat and rubber over- 

 coat, who divided his time between the stove 

 and answering the whistle for "down breaks,' ' 

 which was exceedingly ofien. 



Occasionally we stopped to get water for 

 the engine, or to lubricate the engineer. And 

 thus we went on, following Conception Bay 

 for four or five hours, and this was the one 

 redeeming feature of the ride. It is said, 

 "See \aples and die." See Conception Bay 

 and live to remember it until your dying day. 



The track winds along the side of the 

 mountains, and the sea can be seen stretching 

 away in the distance, with the great cliffs 

 looming up on either side. Words fail to do 

 it justice. It is beyond conception. 



At Harbor Grace .Junction we changed cars, 

 and finally turned from behind a cliff upon 

 the side of a bluff, and sighted Placentia 

 Harbor. If there is anything that can beat 



who WIS not blinded by a ti|>. But he kept the V, 

 and no mistake about that.— Ed.] 



