1901.] Through the Heart of Africa from South to North. 539 



different in type ; if, therefore, they have been connected one with 

 the other, the relations have been either those of master to slave or, 

 subsequently to separation, the two tribes have been subjected to 

 fusion of alien blood from opposite directions. So much for the 

 origin of the Marotse : their subsequent history is long enough and 

 interesting enough to furnish material for another paper, so obviously 

 there is no place for it here. For the rest, I can only say that the 

 Marotse proper are the best type of African native, both physically 

 and intellectually, with whom I have come in contact; while Lewanika 

 is the most remarkable instance of the possible power of adaptation 

 by a native African to the conditions of a more enlightened civilisa- 

 tion that has ever come under my notice, and I do not even except 

 Khama. 



I will illustrate my meaning by asking you to follow us to his 

 house in response to an invitation to lunch. Passing through a well- 

 kept and spacious courtyard, containing the dwellings of his wives, 

 a shelter for the band, and one or two other buildings, we enter an 

 inner court, in the centre of which stands a large, double-roofed 

 house, neatly thatched, and with an 80-feet frontage. An atten- 

 dant opens a heavy red-wood door, mediaeval in character, and 

 announces us. We are welcomed with an easy courtesy by a tall, 

 broad-shouldered man, deep-chested and very black, but with a well- 

 chiselled nose, lips no thicker than those of many Englishmen, 

 cheek and upper lip shaved, hair and pointed beard neatly combed, 

 with an ivory dagger ornament two inches above the right ear. He 

 .is clothed in a well-fitting tweed suit and a light flannelette shirt, 

 •his whole person scrupulously clean and neat. The reception-room, 

 about 20 feet by 25 feet, contains some half-a-dozen European chairs 

 and a mahogany table. Native matwork in varied pattern decorates 

 the wall. He shows us to a seat, and himself sits in a large, 

 straight-backed arm-chair. Arranged above the chair, in a curtained 

 recess, is a framed portrait. This is not for the gaze of vulgar eyes ; 

 the curtain is drawn except on special occasions. It is a portrait of 

 the most widely loved and respected sovereign the world has ever 

 seen — the Queen Victoria. Lewanika had a great respect for our 

 late Queen, and, like so many of her coloured subjects, admired her 

 greatness with something of superstitious reverence. " The Queen 

 must be very great and good," he once said, " for all white men, 

 whether English or not, say only what is good about her." 



But now to lunch. We have just returned from washing our hands, 

 and have used toilet soap and a clean towel. The table is laid with 

 knives, forks and spoons, as highly polished and well arranged, and 

 cloth as spotless, as we are accustomed to in well-ordered houses at 

 home, and we take the seats allotted to us. A row of household 

 servants extends from the table to the door and beyond, each within 

 reaching-distance of his neighbour. No standing is permitted in the 

 royal presence, and the approach and departure are effected with 

 bended knee and lowered head. A covered dish appears from with- 



