416 ANNUAL REPORT SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION, 1950 



of the pure essential oil, depending on the technique of extraction in 

 which 100 grams of the dried lichen yield 8.5 grams of crude everninic 

 acid. 



Uses of essential oils. — The essential oil of oak-moss or "concrete" 

 is used in its natural condition in soap as an impalpable powder or in 

 the form of a resinarome. The powder permits production of soap 

 balls agreeably scented at a reasonable price if the manufacturer can 

 obtain a perfectly impalpable powder; otherwise they give the im- 

 pression of containing sand. The soap manufacturer maintains the 

 quality of his product by procuring his raw material from a reliable 

 purveyor. To be sufficiently scented, soap balls should have 1 or li^ 

 percent by weight of lichen powder. Wlien used for this purpose 

 oak-moss "concrete" improves, strengthens, and cheapens lavender- 

 scented products. It is essential in the higher grades of cosmetics in 

 combination with other aromatic oils, e. g., jasmine, tuberose, and 

 orange blossom. Iceland moss, Cetraria islandica, has already been 

 mentioned in connection with foods and medicine ; in the field of cos- 

 metics it serves as a source of glycerol in the soap industry and in 

 the manufacture of cold creams because of its lack of odor. Some 

 lichens, e. g., Sticta fuliginosa Ach. and S. sylvatica Ach., have an 

 objectionable fishy or methylamine smell. 



The parfumeur recognizes abstract qualities in lichens which en- 

 hance his product. The peculiar reciprocity of the components form- 

 ing the lichen unit and known to the unromantic biologist as symbi- 

 onts, are but an example of harmonious blending appreciated by the 

 parfumeur. Therefore the extract of oak-moss or scented-moss 

 "agrees" and "harmonizes" in the "happiest manner" with a large 

 number of other essences. Its fragrance has been likened to musk- 

 lavender, and as such it may be used as a fixative of the poppy type, 

 blending well with bergamot, citron, acetate of lynalyl, and linalol, 

 thus supplying freshness; with neroli, jasmine, rose, and cassia it 

 improves the flavor of these flowers; it gives flexibility to tarragon, 

 coriander, portugal, ylang-ylang, and vanillin; contributes stability 

 and depth to patchouli, vetyver, coumarin, and musk, and "elevation" 

 to alpha ionene. It also blends well with synthetic oils, e. g., amyl 

 and isobutyl salicylate and acetophenone. It is considered as an in- 

 dispensable basis of numerous perfumes known to the trade as Chypre, 

 Fern, and Heath, and in many bouquets called "Fancy," as well as for 

 the Oriental type of perfume. The absence of aromatic oils, glycerol, 

 or any other desired substance is no disadvantage for the use of lichens 

 in cosmetics; Cladonia rmigiferina and CI. sylvatica have been recom- 

 mended by parf umeurs, since they are whitish, easily dried, and abun- 

 dant "in open healthy places." 



