l6 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. 98 



lock is brushed back and painted and his body is painted a light color 

 with darker stripes running horizontally around his arms and verti- 

 cally on his legs. 



Woman's dress. — It is impossible to ascertain detailed construction 

 of women's attire from the photographs. The Southern Paiute gar- 

 ments, however, seem usually to have consisted of two essential 

 parts — the dress proper and a fringed overskirt or peplum. 



From the somewhat artificial ensembles shown in the poses, it is 

 not certain whether the peplum was ever worn alone (though it is 

 so shown in pi. 5, d) and might thus be considered a true skirt. 

 Rather, it seems primarily to have filled the function of a belt. It 

 consists of a comparatively narrow girdle, 2 to 6 inches wide, from 

 which falls a fringe 1 to 2 feet long. It serves to gather in the dress 

 about the waist and to provide ornamental fringe, which was abun- 

 dantly used on all garments. Often, hooves were tied amongst the 

 fringe strings. Examples are shown from the Moapa (pi. 3, b), the 

 Las Vegas (pis. 5, d, 6, b, c, d), the Kaibab (pis. 14, b, 18, b, c, d), 

 and the St. George (pi. 22, a, d). 



The dress proper appears usually to have been made of two pieces. 

 Judging by museum specimens as well as by the photographs, some 

 were merely fastened at the shoulders, the sides being left open below 

 the arms and somewhat held together by the peplum, whereas others 

 were sewed together down the sides below the arms. These dresses 

 lack true sleeves and have instead fringed shoulder flaps, e.g., the. 

 Kaibab woman in plate 14, b. The sides of the dress were usually 

 also fringed, as in plate 18, b, c, d. Plate 18, b, has, in addition, hooves 

 tied to the fringes on both sides and bottom. 



Several dresses are further ornamented. The Kaibab woman in 

 plates 15, a, b, and 16, a, b, has a thin beaded (?) band running up 

 the sleeve, around the neck, and across the chest. One of the dresses 

 in plate 14, b, has parallel bands across the chest. 



The Ute dresses seem to have followed more strictly the Plains 

 pattern, probably being made of two skins, one in front and one 

 behind, sewed down the sides. Flaps cover the shoulders and fringing 

 is abundant. These dresses are variously ornamented, several having 

 parallel bands which run from one shoulder flap across the chest to 

 the other (pis. 28, c, d, 29, c). Plate 27, c, shows a single band of this 

 kind. In addition to the bands, plate 28, c, has a floral design on the 

 skirt near the lower portion of the fringed seam. The bottom of 

 plate 28, c, has a fringe, 28, d, an ornamental band, and plate 27, c, 

 both fringe and band. Several have elk teeth, for example, that in 

 plate 24, a, on which they are arranged in four horizontal rows across 



