Chap. 13.] WHEN WINES WERE FIRST MADE IN ITALY. 251 

 CHAP. 12. (10.) THREE VARIETIES OF SECOND-KATE WINE. 



Those cannot properly be termed wines, which^ by the 

 Greeks are known under the name of " deuteria," 83 and to 

 which, in common with Cato, we in Italy give the name of 

 " lora,' ;83 being made from the husks of grapes steeped in 

 water. Still, however, this beverage is reckoned as making 

 one of the " labourers'" 84 wines. There are three varieties of 

 it : the first 85 is made in the following manner : — After the 

 must is drawn off, one-tenth of its amount in water is added 

 to the husks, which are then left to soak a day and a night, 

 and then are again subjected to pressure. A second kind, 

 that which the Greeks are in the habit of making, is prepared 

 by adding one- third in water of the quantity of must that has 

 been drawn off, and after submitting the pulp to pressure, the 

 result is reduced by boiling to one-third of its original quan- 

 tity. A third kind, again, is pressed out from the wine-lees ; 

 Cato gives it the name of " fsecatum." 86 None of these be- 

 verages, however, will keep for more than a single year. 



CHAP. 13. (11.) AT WHAT PERIOD GENEROUS WINES WERE FIRST 



COMMONLY MADE IN ITALY. 



"While treating of these various details, it occurs to me to 

 mention that of the eighty different kinds throughout the 

 whole earth, which may with propriety be reckoned in the 

 class of generous 87 wines, fully two- thirds 88 are the produce 

 of Italy, which consequently in this respect far surpasses any 

 other country : and on tracing this subject somewhat higher 

 up, the fact suggests itself, that the wines of Italy have not 

 been in any great favour from an early period, their high 



82 Or "second" press wines. 83 De Re Rust. c. 153. 



84 Vinum operarium. 



*5 This method is still adopted, Fee says, in making " piquette," or 

 " small wine," throughout most of the countries of Europe. 

 86 Or " wine-lee drink." It would make an acid beverage, of disagree- 



" 7 " Nobilia." In c. 29 he speaks of 195 kinds, and, reckoning all the 

 varieties, double that number. 



&8 Fee observes that the varieties of the modern wines are quite innu- 

 merable. He remarks also that Pliny does not speak of the Asiatic wines 

 mentioned by Athenaeus, which were kept in large bottles, hung in the 

 chimney corner ; where the liquid, by evaporation, acquired the consistency 

 of salt. The wines of other countries evidently were little known to Pliny. 



