G30 ANTHROPOLOGICAL PAPERS. 



CLOTHING. 



Eats. — A liiit uiiide by the Makalis, but whi(;li liiuls its way anioug 

 the Twauasaud KhiUams, is water-tight and seems to be made in a mau- 

 uer somewhat siuiihir to that of the water-ti;iht baskets. Other hats 

 somewhat like these, but with flat tops, are made by ludiaus of Brit- 

 ish Columbia and imported. Noue are made by the Twanas, Klallams, 

 or Chemakums. They commonly go bareheaded. 



Body clothing. — Pantaloons, shirts, and coats were formerly made of 

 buckskin by these Indians, but are not now. The only buckskin clothes 

 I have seen were imported from the Chehalis and Takania Indians. 

 Short skirts for the women were made of cedar bark finely split and 

 bound together at the upper edge where they were fastened around the 

 waist. 



Blaiikets. — Three kinds of blankets were formerly in use. One was 

 made of dogs' hair, geese feathers, and the head of the cat-tail rush, 

 twisted and woven together on a loom. A kind of dog, rather small, w^as 

 kept specially for its hair, which was very long, and a woman's wealth 

 was esteemed by the number of such dogs owned. 



Another blanket was made by them from the inner bark of the cedar, 

 slightly beaten and woven, the strings made of geese feathers. Skins 

 were often used, especiallj" those of the bear, deer, and wild cat, sev- 

 eral of the latter being sewed together. Hardly any of these articles 

 of native clothiug are now worn, the civilized style being adopted. 



Mat coats. — One kind of coat made of mats was short in front, ex- 

 tending only about as far as the elbows, but long behind, with a hole 

 for the neck, it being i)ut on over the bead. 



Arm clothing. — I have not been able to learn of any special covering 

 for the arms, as some part of the body clothing already described would 

 naturally extend over the arms. 



Leg and foot clothing. — Moccasins were occasionally used, but the cli- 

 mate is too wet to admit of their being worn with comfort. They gen- 

 erally went barefooted, and the old ones still adhere to this custom. 



Parts of dress. — A few women have of late learned to make lace from 

 thread. 



There is a native-made iron fastening for shawls and blankets. Such 

 fastenings are also made in a little different shape and of brass and 

 wood. Formerly they were made of bone. Fringes are appended to 

 the leather coats, shirts, and i)antaloons already mentioned. This is 

 made of leather an inch or two long. 



Receptacles for dress. — Baskets, described in the previous section, are 

 all used for receiving clothiug, except the eighth one mentioned, which 

 is for thread and nicknacks. 



PERSONAL ADORNMENT. 



Tattooing. — In tattooing they use a needle and thread, blackening the 

 thread with charcoal and drawing it under the skin as deeply as they 

 can bear it. 



