LECTURE ON ARCTIC EXPLORATIONS. 153 



in 1818, twenty miles south of Cape Alexander, the entering cape on 

 the Greenland side of Smith strait. 



The strait was entered on the 27th of August; but we were un- 

 fortunate in meeting near its mouth an ice-pack of extraordinary- 

 thickness, through which no passage could be effected. This pack 

 trended off to the south and west, and appeared to adhere to the 

 western coast. Our efforts to find a navigable lead were interrupted 

 by a heavy gale which broke suddenly upon us and drove us out of 

 the strait. The gale continued with great force for three days, 

 during which we were a second time driven out of the strait, and, 

 having at length sustained serious damage, we made the land and an- 

 chored. 



At that place I went on shore and, from an elevation of twelve 

 hundred feet, obtained a view to the west and north. The ice was 

 everywhere cl^jsely packed and heavy. On the following day we were 

 blown from our anchorage, and were much damaged against some ice- 

 bergs which had drifted in with the current. It was as late as the 1st 

 of September that we again entered the strait, again to be blown out 

 and crippled by a sudden return of the gale. It was not until the 

 evening of September 2d that we effected a permanent lodgment in 

 the strait. Failing to find an opening toward the west shore, I de- 

 termined to seek one higher up, near Cape Hatherton; but when 

 among the ice off Littleton island the schooner became "beset," the 

 iron sheathing on the bows and the cutwater were carried away, and 

 the rudder was rendered useless. After some hours we reached a 

 place of safety and anchored. We put to sea again on the 6th, but 

 failing to pass Littleton island, and the temperature having fallen to 

 12°, when navigation was no longer safe, I was obliged to go into 

 winter quarters in Hartstene bay, ten miles northeast of Cape Alex- 

 ander, in a harbor which I have named Port Foulke, in honor of my 

 friend "William Parker Foulke, esq., of Philadelphia, who was the 

 earliest and has been one of the most constant friends of the expedi- 

 tion. Subsequent observations gave our position, latitude 78° 17' 41", 

 longitude 72° 30' 57" W., twenty miles south of the latitude of Rens- 

 selaer Harbor, (Dr. Kane's winter quarters.) and distant from it by 

 the coast line about ninety miles. 



At the time of going into winter quarters the vessel was badly 

 crippled by frequent collisions with field ice, and by twice being driven 

 upon icebergs. The weather was not only very boisterous from the 

 time of our first entering the strait, but thick snow was almost con- 

 tinually falling. I regretted very much that we had not steam-power. 



My plans of exploration being based upon reaching the west coast, 

 and there attainino- a harbor above or near latitude 79°, which I had 

 thought practicable from personal observations made in 1854, you will 

 perceive that our winter harbor was very unfavorable for the accom- 

 plishment of my purpose. I could not attain even as co»venient a 

 position as that of Dr. Kane, whose line of travel, being near the 

 Greenland coast, was freed from some of the obstacles attending our 

 passage across the strait, with dog sledge, to Grinnell Land. 



Our preparations for the winter were similar to those of Dr. Kane. 

 A house was built on shore to receive our stores, and the hold of the 



