222 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL, 1 33 



formant) was a boy: a chiripa (pants of chamall, a rectangularly 

 shaped, rather loosely woven piece of cloth), a chochol (sleeveless 

 sweater of chamall), a makufi (poncho), a chamallwe (woven belt), 

 a trariilorjko (headband, no head covering) ; and for men, but not 

 boys, a pair of tranu (leather soles tied to the feet), several traiikuque 

 (metal bracelets), and trariinamun (metal anklets). A chiripa was 

 secured at the waistline with a belt, and then drawn up between the 

 legs from behind and tucked under the belt in front. 



When Father Sigifredo arrived among the Araucanians about 1900 

 nearly all men were still wearing chiripa and walked barefoot. Con- 

 servative old men in all areas wore chiripa as recently as 1940. "In 

 fact, the cacique [Conaripe] who died recently never owned pants." 

 In all areas today some men and boys still wear chiripa when working 

 near or at home — "one must have money to buy commercially made 

 pants ; a chiripa is cheaper ; our women weave chamall for chiripa." 



The oldest informants had heard old people say that when they 

 were still young the Araucanians wore clothing made of dressed hides 

 of a wild animal "of which there were plenty then." One informant 

 believed it was the huemel. An old woman who was listening in said 

 she had heard that it was the puma. 



Informants recalled the days when the cacique wore one earring, 

 a silver one, and when a man's saddle gear was ornamented with 

 silver; but no informant knew of any man who owned such ornaments 

 today. All remembered that a man of means — "and most of them 

 were that," a woman listening in interjected — could be distinguished 

 by a trariituwe, that is, a leather belt ornamented with silver ; the belt 

 worn by others, the chamallwe, was homewoven and not ornamented. 



Today, in general, men, both young and old, wear shirts and pants 

 the same as Chilean men, securing them with the traditional chamallwe 

 instead of a leather belt as Chileans do. All men wear ponchos ; some 

 also wear coats. (Pis. 20, 22, 2;^, 25, 26.) Men often have two 

 ponchos, one for work and errands in the area and a better one for 

 special occasions such as trips to other areas, fiestas, and church serv- 

 ices. At present, too, men wear shoes on these special occasions ; and 

 if a man can afford it, he will also have shoes for his sons for such 

 occasions. At home all are barefoot, unless a man makes for himself 

 a pair of ojotas (tranu) (pi. 26, 2). Ojotas are made from dressed, 

 untanned horse or ox hide. In making a pair, a man steps on a piece 

 of hide and marks on it the outline of his foot, making the pattern 

 large enough so that when the edges are brought together the hide 

 will cover the entire foot. He cuts out the section as marked, pokes 

 holes at close intervals along the edge and runs a thong through them. 



