224 SMITHSONIAN MISCELLANEOUS COLLECTIONS VOL. I33 



a natrowe (yarn braided into the hair or wound around bunches of it 

 and around the ends of braids). Ponchos were not worn by women; 

 nor did women wear tranu — all w^alked barefoot. Today, in general, 

 women of all ages wear a long-sleeved w^aist and a kapam, and over 

 these, an apron ; a factor^'-woven black shawl is worn when away from 

 home. (Pis. 2, j ; 3, 2 ; 4, i, 5 ; 24, i*, j ; 29, i ; 38, J ; 56 1 58-) Most 

 women are barefoot at all times; those who have shoes wear them 

 only on special occasions. 



A kapam is rectangular in shape. (The loo-year-old Conaripe man 

 said the kapam could also be called kiipam or pillken.) A married 

 woman demonstrated the manner of wearing the kapam. (Cf. pi. 56.) 

 She placed the kapam against her back lengthwise at the shoulders. 

 Then she brought one corner toward the front, across the right 

 shoulder, and the other corner under her left arm, across her chest, 

 and over her right shoulder ; then she tied a belt (trariiwe) tight about 

 her waist. Next she folded the two corners on her right shoulder, one 

 over the other, in front of the right shoulder and pinned them to- 

 gether with a safety pin. After this she adjusted the overlapping 

 skirt parts — at least a foot of each. The only clothing worn under the 

 kapam was a long-sleeved waist of considerable length. Married 

 women, after the arrival of the first baby, wear the kapam pinned on 

 one shoulder only, "as I showed you; it is easier to nurse the baby 

 when the kapam is pinned on one shoulder only." Unmarried women 

 pin them on both shoulders. 



Girls formerly wore clothes styled like those of adult women. 

 Usually the mother w^ove a kapam to fit the girl. "I recall my mother 

 taking my measurements for one she was getting ready to weave for 

 me; I had only one; she had made that one out of the less worn-out 

 part of an old one of hers." 



Waists and aprons are made of cotton cloth bought in Chilean 

 stores ; they are hand-sewn by the women — no family owned a sewing 

 machine. Buttons being scarce, in Alepue area a row of Chilean 

 20-centavo coins with two holes punched in each were often seen 

 sewed down the front of a waist. 



The factory-woven shawl worn today by both women and girls is 

 folded double so that corners fit exactly. This gives it the shape of 

 the ikiilla worn formerly. The shawl is worn over the shoulders (over 

 the head only in the rain) and is secured at the neck with a safety pin 

 or stickpin. 



In all areas a few women, both young and middle-aged, who were 

 either working as servants in Chilean homes or had done so, wore 

 modern dresses exclusively. Having worn modern dresses as residents 



