THE UPPER ENGADINE IN 1914. 165 



Moritz Bad and around the St. Moritz lake to the Meieii for a cup of 

 €offoe, of which, having once tasted, the temptation is too strong not 

 to endeavour to make one's rambles terminate again and again at the 

 far-famed "Gasthaus." Just at one ])oint in the walk we saw a rain- 

 bow in the spray above the Innfall at the exit of the stream from the 

 lake. I might say that the views during the earlier part of our visit 

 were much enhanced by the late disappearance and fre(iuent renewal of 

 the snow on the mountain tops. For a week after we arrived the snow 

 did not recede from the slopes of the Muotta Muraigl above the pine 

 trees. The ground sacred to A>. ilavofaaciata was so covered by snow 

 that a projected visit was put off and unfortunately indefinitely so, for 

 war broke out and all means of conveyance were stopped, small 

 money was quite unobtainable, and when a chance of paying a visit did 

 eventually occur it was much too late for the species to be found. 



The early morning of July 27th was very misty and the sunlight 

 was very bright at intervals, but we had determined to go to the 

 Morteratsch Glacier and walk along the western mountain slope towards 

 the l)Oval hut. 1 had arranged to walk from St. Moritz through 

 Pontresina and Mrs. Turner was to come on by train and meet me at 

 Morteratsch station later in the morning. The night had been wet 

 and then frosty, so that the air was delightfully cold as I started to 

 renew my memories of some seven years before, when I had taken the 

 same road. Many were the changes I saw, all no doubt induced by the 

 railway, which did not exist on my previous visit. My way led through 

 the village, by the station, to the Innfall and St. Moritzer See, around 

 which the ground was still white, as the sun's rays had not come over 

 the tops to the eastward. The reflection of the snow-capped mountains 

 in the perfectly clear and still waters of the See was at its best. Later 

 in the day, when agitated by the movements of boats or the changing 

 winds, this is to a great extent spoiled. The Meierei, where one 

 always wanders towards late afternoon for a delightful cup of coffee, 

 seemed unchanged, and early as it was the women were washing as 

 usual at the running stream. Further on was reached Statzer See, a 

 small shallow lake among the pines, now with an ugly restaurant for 

 afternoon tea spoiling its loneliness. The path then led into the pine 

 forest fringing the base of the Piz Rosatsch, still dripping with 

 moisture too much to stir its foliage or undergrowth, but as was 

 always my experience in the some dozen times I passed that way 

 during my stay, the insects resting on the trunks, etc., were very 

 sensitive to every neighbouring movement and flew off in considerable 

 numbers. Species of Scoparia, (j )i(>i>lios a.nd "Carpets" seemed to be 

 the luore prevalent. As the path through the woods to Pontresina 

 would be more or less shaded at this early hour, and was also damp, 

 I took that leading across the rail and JJernina-bach to the lower end 

 of the village, expecting to meet with a few insects on the low meadows 

 covered with scattered glacier blocks, but in this I was disappointed, as 

 not a wing was seen in spite of the now brilliant sunshine. Passing 

 rapidly through the mile-long village, stopping a moment to admire 

 the glorious view up the Rosegg Thai with its lovely white glacier at 

 its head, 1 took the path to the right across the meadows and bach 

 towards the Sansouci Restaurant, now relieved of its loneliness by the 

 near approach of the Pernina Railway and a station. After passing a 

 little way along the path I wandered to the edge of the trees and along 



