NOTES ON THE ETHNOLOGY OF TIBET. 687 



collar faced with red cloth and edged with otter fur. The style of shirt 

 worn at Lh'asa and in central Tibet generally is similar to the above, 

 except that the collar is narrower. Examples of these shirts are in the 

 Museum collection. Bure is manufactured in Bhutan. 



In central and western Tibet the women frequently wear over their 

 shoulders a shawl (kadri)^ fastened at the neck with a large buckle of 

 gold or silver. In Ladak, instead of this shawl a sheep or lambskin 

 cape is worn. 



The Tibetans have adopted the Chinese Avaistcoat or kan-chien, a 

 rather close-titting garment buttoning at the neck and down the right 

 side under the arm, with no sleeves, and large armholes. This they 

 make of native cloth {trulc) among the less civilized tribes, and in 

 eastern Tibet it is nearly invariably of the striped pattern. It is worn 

 next to the skin under the cWuha. The Chinese riding jacket {mu Ina- 

 tzU), with short, wide sleeves and reaching down to a little above the 

 waist, made of native cloth or of foreign broadcloth, is also often worn 

 in central Tibet by officials and soldiers. 



As previously stated, the chhiha is the garment par excellence of all 

 Tibetans, but only the pastoral tribes have strictly adhered to it; 

 elsewhere the women more especially have adopted a modified costume. 

 Thus, in parts of eastern Tibet, Bat'ang, for instance, over the ch'ubas, 

 usually made of native cloth, but sometimes of blue cotton, they wear 

 a kind of box-plaited i)etticoat reaching to the ankle and made of striped 

 truk, or else an apron which nearly meets in the back. Others, as in 

 Chala, wear a long sleeveless gowu over the cloth cWtiba, the two bound 

 around the waist by a sash. 



In central Tibet the costume of the women of wealth is most elabo- 

 rate, frequently of brocaded silk or satin, but the general style of dress 

 is essentially the same, one or perhaps two long gowns, a shirt, and 

 l^ossibly a kau-chien. The boots of men and women are the same, 

 though wealthy women also frequently wear Chinese velvet boots. 



The men of Ladak wear a cloak (La-pa-sha) of wooleu, thick aud -warm. It is 

 usually white, or rather it has ouce been white; for as the people only wash them- 

 selves once a year, aud never wash their clothes, their cloaks are always of a dirty 

 hue. Round their legs, from knee to ankle, they have coarse woolen leggings (rkang 

 phying) of felt, fitting tightly, or else wrapped close round the leg and secm-ed by a 

 garter (rkang-gduh), which is wound spirally round the leg from the ankle upward. 

 The garter is generally black, but sometimes red. On their heads they wear either 

 quilted skull caps, as tilthy as their cloaks, or capes of sheepskin with the wool 

 inside, and with a large flap behind, which covers the back of the neck as well as 

 the ears. Those in better circumstances have fur caps of the same shape. Their 

 boots are of ftlt, with soles of sheep or goatskin, which are turned uji all round 

 and sewn to the felt. The upper part of the felt boot is open to the front and is 

 allowed to fall over, something in the manner of the boots worn in England in 

 Chailes II's time. (Alex. Cunningham, Ladak, p. 303.) 



In Ladak the women wear a black woolen jacket with a large striped woolen 

 petticoat of many colors, generally green, blue, red, and yellow, reaching below the 



LTiid leg. Over all they wear a sheepskin with the wool inside, secured, or rather 

 =• ewered, in front by a large iron or brass needle. The poorest classes have the out- 



3 of the skin plain, but those in better circumstances cover it with coarse woolen 



