IRISH INSECT-HUNTFR. 151 



A stranger passing through would suppose every little road- 

 side hamlet to be a place of immense resort, for at least six out 

 of seven of the cabins or cottages, including hovels the most 

 mean-looking and miserable, have a board of invitation to the 

 traveller hung out, and variously expressed : — " Lodgings, by 

 Margaret Connor," or " Mary O'Donnell," and " Beds to let." 

 'J'he order^ too, in which the invitation to good cheer was fre- 

 quently written on the sign-boards of the little road-side inns, 

 viz. " Licensed to sell spirituous liquors — Entertainment;" 

 the latter word often underneath, in the way of an after-thought 

 or nota bene, indicated, I thought, too plainly the national 

 preference for the liquid excitements over tlie solid enjoyments 

 of life, — a regard for drinking as the more constant and serious 

 business, — the rest only an occasional occupation or light 

 amusement. ... It strikes me now that I do not remember to have 

 noticed a single instance of incorrect spelling on any of the 

 sign-boards or other notifications, of which we have such 

 ludicrous specimens in the rustic districts, and even in the 

 larger towns, of England and Wales. 



There was plenty of dirt and rags to be seen ; but, on the 

 whole, we found the population cleaner and better clad than, 

 from all accounts, we had expected. The men generally wore 

 a grey coat or jerkin, and were mostly provided with hats, 

 shoes, and stockings. Among the women, at least six days in 

 the week, shoes and stockings can scarcely be said to exist. 

 The matrons wear caps, — the girls neither caps nor bonnets ; 

 but the cloak! — " how it strikes a stranger!" — that Protean 

 article of dress ! what would an Irish country girl be without 

 her cloak ! Besides its own proper duty, it performs the part 

 of shawl, hood, bonnet, cap, veil, umbrella, parasol, gown, ad 

 infra, — I dare not give the English any further, — according as 

 it is variously worn, sometimes most gracefully, and always 

 picturesque. The colour of the cloak is generally either blue 

 or scarlet, according to the district, and is made to display a 

 degree of native taste with which we were equally surprised 

 and delighted. When we had further opportunities of observ- 

 ing the fine tall figures, and becoming manner of the country 

 lasses, thronging the hills and cross-roads on Sunday, all neat 

 and tidy, with this cloak so variously worn, — their long black 

 hair carefully parted over the forehead, and flowing behind, 

 except when the wearer owned a gay party-coloured handker- 



